The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts bought a c60 today

bought a 62 c60 today. drove it home today and i'm pretty stoked. i have had several 3/4 tons, a 1 ton, and a couple of 1/2 tons from the 60's i really like this one too. it has air brakes on rear, 5 speed trans w/2 speed rear, hyd shock under drivers seat, spotlight,big air horns, and orig, radio. it has a 427, i am really a inline six guy but i will keep this v8 for a while at least. i think i am going to have some heavy hauling needs coming up soon. i have missed a lot of opertunities because i haven't had a truck big enough to move some things in the past, well no longer!!! i have one question for now if someone can answer, do i check the oil in the compressor for the brakes and air horns? if so where and do i use reg compressor oil for stationary air compressors? thanks, hr

Yup, standard compressor oil will work just fine. Congrats on your new toy.

Your air compressor gets its oil under pressure
from the trucks engine.
FERGY

drain your air tanks regularly to keep moisture and sludge out of the system.

thanks, i kept looking and see the line going to it, so i don't have to worry about that. i found something else strange. i was checking every thing out and in the master cyl it looks like it has oil instead of dot 3 brake fluid. i don't know if it is engine oil or hydrolic fluid. the brakes are working fine but i wanted to top off MC. i mixed a little out of the MC in a cap of dot 3 and it didn't mix just beaded up and floated on top, mixed some w/engine oil and it mixed up. i am going to try to call previous owner and see what he has been using when he gets back in. are those air tanks the long cylinders back on both sides of the frame? can i just toot the horn till the pressure goes down and take out a plug in bottom? thank you all, hr

first I've never seen a truck with hydroulic brakes on front and air on the rear, usually they have one or the other on both axles. the air tanks are usually long and have petcocks you open to drain them. you can open the petcocks with pressure in the system and that will force the moisture and sludge out faster. You can also get quick release drains with a pull cable that will screw in place of the petcocks makes it easier just walk by and pull the cable. I use one also on air compressor in my garage and bleed it so each time i fire the compressor up beats getting on hands and knees to unscrew petcock. Are you sure you are looking at a master cylinder for the front brakes. if so your bargain is getting more interesting.

looks like you're right the master cyl is for the hyd clutch. air brakes all the way around. i was just going off what the previous owner told me. i am def going to drain out the tanks, looks like they haven't been opened lately. well that will make it easier if i only have to bleed that system. i thought most hyd clutchs used brake fluid too. what are they supposed to use? does the slave cyl on the clutch bleed out just like the wheel cyl on brakes? should i worry about the oil contamination after i drain it all out and put brake fluid in. this looks like the same master cyl that my 63 uses for brakes the square one with offset mounting bolts not round one. i think a rebuilt one is 25 or so from parts store, and i have rebuilt the round ones. hey, if this has the same style of bleeder screw can i put in one of those i got for my brakes w/the check valves and make it a one man job? thanks for all the info, hr

got the tanks drained, thanks for the info on that. thay didn't have too muck water/ sludge in them. i was expecting more. leaving the air in the system helped too. i am still going to contact previous owner to see what he had been using for fluid in the hyd clutch. thanks again, hr

Any petroleum-based oil in a hydraulic clutch system is a disaster waiting to happen, as the oil atttacks the rubber parts and makes them swell up and blow out. If it is actually oil in there, I'd replace or rebuild everything, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and any flex lines in the circuit. At least flush everything out with alcohol, followed by a fill with fresh DOT 3 or 4 fluid, then bleed the system thoroughly. Nothing like pushing the clutch pedal, and not being able to get that beast out of gear!
Jerry

i tried flushing everything out and the master cyl wouldn't even work after i switched over to the brake fluid. i got a new master cyl, took off the slave cyl and cleaned it out, and cleaned out the steel line. woa, what a difference that made. bleed the system after installing one of those valves with the check valve in it and the clutch is up wher it should be. i thought it might need adjustment but the master cyl was doing such a poor job of pushing it only disengaged a few inched off the floor. it's a good feeling to get it mobile again. nothing like this sitting in the drive and not being able to move it. i 've still got more stuff to check out before i start using it a lot. thanks, hr

Hoggy;
Find out how to properly adjust those brakes. It's easy if you do it right, lethal if you don't.

all ways block your wheels before you adjust your brakes.there has been more than one person killed by not blocking them.
all ways check your brake strok.after you adjest them.old slacks can and will bind in side.

sorry i didn't mean to be confussing. i had switched gears and was talking about the hydrolic clutch. the brakes are all air and i bleed the tanks as suggested and haven't done anything else to them they are working fine. it was the hydrolic clutch that the peddle was low to the floor and the master cyl on it stoped working after i got the contaminants out and dot3 in. it is adjusted correctly i believe. thanks to everyone i will have more questions later i am going to put this to work in a week or so moving stuff around out of town at the family's place.