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#152604 05/13/2007 2:23 PM
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Two questions:

Is the brake booster necessary?

If I have a vacuum system that sucks (but not literally!) is there any other way to boost brakes?

#152605 05/13/2007 3:01 PM
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A brake booster is a good idea if you go fast or haul a lot of weight.

I have a 52 1 ton that did not have a booster, I drove it everyday for a few years with out problems. You do learn to anticipate your stops and slow down early.

As far as boosters, I can't say enough about hydroboosters. I have installed them on all of my trucks and will on any trucks I get in the future.
I think that vacuum boosters suck compared to hydroboosters. A hydrobooster works off of the power steering pump pressure. One can be installed even of you don't want or have power steering, but you will need a pump.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#152606 05/13/2007 3:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2002
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'Bolter
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The brake booster is most definitely needed for a 1 1/2, & 2 ton truck. I noticed you have a '55 6400 series 2 ton. Is this the truck in question.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures on Photobucket

1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
#152607 05/13/2007 3:50 PM
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Grigg, when are you going to start marketing Hydro-Vac mounting adapters?


195? Chevy 3800 dump truck
1973 Chevy C30 cab and chassis
1987 Suburban 3/4 ton 6.2L Diesel
#152608 05/13/2007 6:32 PM
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'Bolter
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All I can say for certain is that with just the MC pushing by brakes, it was a real bear to get it stopped if I needed to do it quickly. Lot's of pumping & swearing involved. The boosters push more fluid than the MC as well, so help more than just how hard to have to push the brake.
Something you might do is mount a vac resivior tank under the cab (thinkin of doin this one myself actualy) and if the engine isn't doin it well enough you could get either belt driven or electric vac pumps to keep the booster ready to go.


1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "
1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber"
2007 Chevy Avalanche
2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk,
2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI

I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things.
But thats just MY opinion!
:P
#152609 05/13/2007 7:13 PM
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starkweatherr,
I have actually seen adapters for sale that mount the hydrobooster on the frame and then run a long push rod back to it from the brake peddle. I did not think of doing it this way when I did my truck, but it is probably easier.
I'll see if I can find the link for the kit, but there is one out there for the AD trucks to use a hydrobooster.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#152610 05/13/2007 7:35 PM
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I don't think this is the kit I first saw, but it is one that should work.
http://www.performanceonline.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=18228&cat=1057&page=1


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#152611 05/13/2007 7:47 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
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Starkweatherr,
If you look through the building of my 56 5100 you will find that I used a hydro-boost with a bracket that uses the stock through the floor peddles. I got it from ABS Power Brake INC. It came complete with the bracket, power booster, master cylinder and remote reservoir. The bracket mounts to the stock master cylinder mount and the guys at ABS sized the master cylinder to the 2 ton's brakes. ABS is located in Orange, CA. and can be reached at
(714)771-6549 they have a very nice web site however my computer crashed so I don't have the link you may want to try a few variations of their name and see if it works.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
user
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/56Taskforce/slideshow/
#152612 05/13/2007 7:54 PM
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nodaknick

I would use some kind of booster and be sure the brakes are tip top. Sheet metal for the big bolts can be hard to find wink and others will be greatfull too. grin


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
user
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/56Taskforce/slideshow/
#152613 05/13/2007 10:02 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
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Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator
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Heavy Hauler,
Is this the link you were looking for?

http://www.abspowerbrake.com/


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
#152614 05/13/2007 10:24 PM
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That's who made the kit I was trying to find.
http://www.abspowerbrake.com/4754chevytruck.html
near the bottom.
Should be simple enough, and you don't need the pedal assembly they offer, as you can use your old one.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#152615 05/14/2007 3:52 AM
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Yeah, my neighbor was telling about the hydrobooster, but the problem is there is no power steering. I suppose I could mount a pump. I noticed in one of the replies that there are electric ones? That might be something to look into!!

Thanks a lot! I've got lots of links to look into.

#152616 05/14/2007 3:59 AM
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Holy crap!! The dang hydrobooster is as much as the truck cost!! I suppose - in the name of stopping that huge chunk of iron!!

#152617 05/14/2007 4:11 AM
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Every single part I bought for my 52 cost more than the truck did.....

You can buy a used hydrobooster and master cylinder at a junk yard for much much less.
Always buy the newest one you can find. They are almost identical outside for the last 10 or 20 years, but inside they get better and better every year.
I have a 2004 booster on one truck, and it feels much better than a used early 90's one I just installed in another truck.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#152618 05/14/2007 7:02 PM
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nodaknick,
I got the mount, booster, master cylinder, and remote reservoir, for $600 you will have more into license and insurance than that and it will go a long way toward keeping you from having to put a claim on your insurance.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
user
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/56Taskforce/slideshow/
#152619 05/15/2007 2:20 AM
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Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator
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heavy hauler,
Did you run it off the power steering or did you rig up a pump? Now this question is from my newbie standing: if I had to put a hydraulic pump, would I put a double crank pulley and mount one to run off of it, and what type of pump?


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
#152620 05/15/2007 2:53 AM
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Super55,
You will need a power steering pump to run the booster no matter what.
The option you will then have is converting to a power steering gear box instead of the manual. The thinking is you will have the pump for the booster, so may as well use it for power steering while you are at it.

The Power steering pump can be run from a second grove on the crank pulley if you can find one, or there are many other options.
Check my pictures for one, and I can sell the bracket I made, as I don't need it any more.
Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#152621 05/15/2007 3:17 AM
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Grigg,
I was looking through your pics. Just making sure, but it looks like you mounted the powersteering pump on the generator, and I would have to find a power steering gear box, and a double pulley. That sounds like a good idea, but I would have to ask a lot of questions on fabricating that up. What pump would work, and would it be hard to find the pulley and gearbox?


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
#152622 05/15/2007 4:05 AM
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Super55,
Yes, I mounted the pump to the generator and ran it off of a second grove on a generator pulley.
I recommend using a Saginaw P series pump, used on almost every GM and IHC car and truck from about 60's till at least 80's.
The double pulley I used is a standard alternator pulley. You will need to also find an alternator fan that fits, remove your old pulley fan assembly, and the woodruff key. Install the alternator fan and pulley in place of them, reuse the old nut.
Are you sure you want to switch to power steering too? It gets a bit more involved, with cutting off the original steering column, some machine work, and finding or buying a steering shaft and u-joints. Then mounting the new gearbox too. I used the box from a 78 IHC Scout II. It will not work as easy with the stock front axle as will the 70's 2wd Chevy truck box most people use. I used the Scout box because I also swapped the entire front axle, and it worked great with the steering linkage that was on that axle.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#152623 05/15/2007 9:40 PM
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Shop Shark
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Super55,
Grigg covered your question well if you still have more or wish to go this way you should take a look through my pictures as well. I used the same box as Grigg but kept the same axle. It's all explained in the truck build thread for my 56 I tried the 70's 2wd box rout first and found there is not enough room on the big bolts the tire hits the box in a right hand turn.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
user
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/56Taskforce/slideshow/

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