Just a really big WAG here, but first thought that comes to my mind is access holes for outer skin dent repair???
Those will be a bit of a challenge to fix, sorry to say.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
It sure was nice of the PO to weld the cutouts back into place to maintain the structural integrity of the door.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Just to get your thread back on track (thanks to the fellow Bolters that offered "alternative" ideas - LOL ), are you intending to save the door and repair to restore to original appearance?
That is possible, but welding in patches is going to be very slow/time consuming if you want to avoid contorting the shape and fit of the door.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Don't know why they were done and I realize you didn't ask how to repair. Here is a suggestion for you or anyone else,
The least expensive way, "easiest" to fix, is find someone (electrician or HVAC) with a Greenlee type hole punch the same size that was used. Make round patches and weld slowly, one at a time. The indent portion of some patches can be made with round stock as a mandrel. Use a large piece of metal and a rod, indent a long dimple in it, same size and depth as door dimples. Then punch out each. Locate punch on dimple to duplicate each hole patch. Work each patch a little after punching out until good fit. Use this as a brainstorm for your own method as you see fit.
I don't advise a big skin patch from a vendor or donor door unless it's used as punchout material. It is a method some will like. It has a slight warp risk to do that. If you don't have a welder, buy a donor door and transfer all hardware....but that will have it's own can of worms. If you can do the weld repair without removing door, that is way less work than to realign door. Spot welding does not need to lay flat.
A round hole has less impact on structure usually. No worry to leave alone unless oil canning/noise.
A round patch has no stress corners and easier to weld in. looks like only about four need a dimple. One hole will be covered by a panel. There are various inner cowl panels available that may have the same dimple. They may be a good head start for punchout patches.... or of course, as said, a door skin.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
What bartamos said. It might be less intrusive to the structure if you made the patches a little bigger than the holes and used panel bond to attach them to the back of the door panel, and then fill and shape with filler. If you can dig up a donor door (one that's rusted out on the outer skin or beat up would work, as long as that rear half of the inner skin is in good shape,) it might be less work to cut a patch incorporating all those holes instead of patching each separately. This might be a spot where a lapped joint, either welded or bonded would be appropriate. Using aflanging tool would help make the job go easier. Unfortunately, that topmost hole isn't entirely covered by the upper door panel that's screwed in place. Nice of them to overlap it. If they hadn't you could leave the hole there.
Good Luck
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.