I have a brand new radiator, but don’t want to use it and plug it up without giving it my best effort to clean out the rust and sediment out of my 216. I have the two side block plugs out and used a super magnet on a wire to fish out about a half of a cup of rust and chunks after digging around with a pic, the best I could. That only takes care of a couple of the cylinders. I have a couple of those doorman rubber plugs to put in at least temporarily while I try to clean out more. I have a Jerry rigged a 5 gallon bucket set up for a temporary radiator while I run the engine but my question is what should I put in to help dissolve and or remove things the best I can while it is running. The over the counter Prestone radiator flush? Or something stronger like vinegar mixture, etc? suggestions and opinions, please. Larry
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
Evaporust. Fill it up and run the engine. TSP works, too.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
The active ingredient in all the commercial rust treatments is phosphoric acid. The real stuff is available on Ebay. Mix up a pretty strong solution of it and circulate it, then once the engine is clean enough to satisfy you, flush with clean water and neutralize the acid with a box of baking soda mixed with water. Refill with a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
You can also use citric acid. You can get about 2 pounds of it (dry) on Amazon for $12. But either citric acid or phosphoric acid will both damage metal if the mix is too strong and if it is left too long. CLR can be used. Remove your water pump, drain the block, close drain holes and fill as full as possible. Leave overnight. Repeat if needed. CLR tends to lose its "oomph" over time.
The advantage to citric acid is you can use what you don't need in the engine as a house cleaner. Mix with tap water to a 6% strength and use to clean toilets, bathtubs, lavatories and stainless steel sinks in a spray bottle. It is extremely good for removing deposits from shower heads, faucets, etc. Makes them look new again. Add a wee bit of liquid soap like Dawn detergent for added surfactant ability but do not use this on granite, natural stone or colored grout. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Thanks guys, I’ll give it a try after I get some chemicals and a usable battery.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
