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| | | | Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 27 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 27 | The rear wheel cylinders are positioned at 9 & 3. How does one get all the air out? They have shields over them so you can’t access or take the top off. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,052 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,052 | Brake bleeding is covered in this manual. 1954 Chevy Truck Shop Manual. Should be the same as your '53
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 27 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 27 | Thanks. Can I assume that all air will be removed from cylinder while bleeding even though it’s vertical? | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,052 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,052 | Thanks. Can I assume that all air will be removed from cylinder while bleeding even though it’s vertical? That would be my guess. Make sure the brakes are adjusted up so there's a minimum of volume above the bleeder screw.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 27 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2021 Posts: 27 | Thanks. I did take it apart but your smart enough comment has me wondering. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2021 Posts: 1 Moderated | | Moderated Joined: Apr 2021 Posts: 1 | I am having the same problem on my 53 GMC. The brakes are more like the ones described in the older manual https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/index.htmReading carefully, the manual instructs you to loosen the top brake adjuster on both rear wheels. This allows the piston to retract downward to help remove the air pocket / space above the bleeder screw opening inside the wheel cylinder. Bleed the brakes as normal, then adjust the upper adjuster back to its operating position. This makes sense, however I just performed this procedure and no luck. Still needs a pump of the pedal before getting any braking. On my truck, I am confident the issue is in the rear because I have plugged off the rear and the pedal is rock hard (no pumping). This has been very frustrating. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,987 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,987 | For my 2 ton Task Force, the shop manual says to back the adjusters off when bleeding, I didn't do it that way. I adjusted all four wheels until I had HEAVY drag, rock the wheel back and forth and step on the brake to center the shoes, readjust if needed to get a heavy drag. Then I did a two man manual bleed the old fashion way. Once I had a solid peddle I re-adjusted the brakes at each wheel for a light drag. Mine is all stock, I rebuilt all 7 cylinders and the Hydrovac, new copper/nickel lines and new hoses, I have zero problems and very responsive brakes.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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