From what I know, that rear mount was originally riveted together.
You will need to cut-off or drill those out and use bolts and nuts to reassemble.
Might suggest using "nylock" self-locking nuts for reassembly.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Dan is correct that the original mount is riveted. My mount is a repo and is riveted so as Dan suggested, drill out the rivets and use bolts. I’ve included a picture.
Last edited by Phak1; 10/11/202311:29 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
This thread shows what I did to fix my deteriorated transmission mount.
You need the sleeves to keep the top and bottom plate apart and ideally to keep the sleeves (with bolts or rivets securing top and bottom plates together) centered in those oblong holes in the center plate. That's why I used the liquid polyurethane stuff.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
