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#1392263 01/11/2021 7:38 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Drug my transmission mount ('51 3-speed) out to do a little clean up on it. The rubber between the two riveted plates is still there, but in pretty sad shape. I also discovered that one of the mount ears had been welded back in place, which might account for why part of the rubber is missing.

Has anyone tried using pourable polyurethane to restore the pad? I looked at some of the material available and have some questions about it.
Anyone know what hardness the pad should be if I attempt it? I'm thinking about 65 Shore. I think it would be easy enough to clean out the old stuff (basically burn it out) and make a form to keep the parts in position till it cures. I know that replacements are available, but ~$75 for a repop or ~120 for revulcanization is a bit steep. Besides, I like to try fixing things myself.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Posts: 5,096
Kevin,

I get snowplow neoprene grader blade mat’l for such jobs, comes in rolls 1” thick by 4” wide, of course cannot vulcanize it, but has lots of uses, relatively cheap. Ought to be some where you live.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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'Bolter
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I would humbly suggest to consider the operating environment for a bit before choosing a material
I’m not sure where exactly this mount is
But if it’s like my trucks that whole area is messy and hot with trace amounts of everything found in the engine bay


If the part will be exposed to motor oil or traces of gasoline then perhaps neoprene is not considered a suitable material as it score at the bottom of chemical compatibility charts for both of those items (unacceptable for use in contact with/)

Heat and incompatible chemicals is going to lead to premature failure
Sure it might last a while but it won’t be anything like using a compatible material while going though the effort of rebuilding it.

What I do in cases like this,
Look up chemical compatibility charts online
Make a list of the best few materials for your application
hunt sources for those materials while considering how you would mold or machine them for your application
-s

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
The transmission mount is right under the u-joint ball of the torque tube. Can be oily (especially when a bolt is left out - which was the case on mine), but not hot. I think Polyurethane would stand up to oil pretty well. It will have to be a pourable substance that sets up, because there are two plates riveted together and a center plate with larger holes in it so the mount "floats" without metal-to-metal contact.
Attachments
IMG_3637.JPG (364.59 KB, 207 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I purchased one of the reproduction mount many of the vendors sell. The metal parts are okay but the rubber part is thinner than stock and it is all held together with bolts. You could cut or grind the rivets out of your stock unit and just bolt it back together with a suitable piece of rubber between. The stall mats used for horses might work, maybe a little too thick but would hold up to oil. I put my stock mount back in last time I had everything apart. If you would like to try the aftermarket mount I will send it to you for the price of shipping.

Last edited by Hookalatch; 01/11/2021 11:30 PM.
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I installed one that I purchased from Classic Parts that was riveted and not bolted. It was missing when I bought my truck so when I reinstalled the engine and tranny after a recent rebuild, I also installed the new rear tranny mount. I personally was impressed with the quality and it was one of the only aftermarket parts I bought that did not have to be tweaked.

Last edited by Phak1; 01/12/2021 12:47 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Try using pieces of sidewall material cut from a worn out 18-wheeler tire. The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips, and layers can be stacked if a thicker cushion is required.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
Try using pieces of sidewall material cut from a worn out 18-wheeler tire. The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips, and layers can be stacked if a thicker cushion is required.
Jerry

You do have a way with words. 😆

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The thickness of the rubber I believe is critical. Once you install the front and rear engine mounts, the rear of the transmission where the mount is attached, does not have allot of movement. If you change the thickness one direction or the other too much, I believe you would put undue stress on the other mounts.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Cutting the rivets is an option that I may use, but the issue is that sandwiching flat rubber between the plates wouldn't deal with the horizontal positioning that having the space between the rivets/bolts filled with material would. It's possible that it could slip and make metal-to-metal contact.
Chuck, I will keep that in mind.
Phil, I agree that it should be in the same position as original, which wouldn't be that hard to do with pourable polyurethane.
I'm not sure if tire sidewall would be the right softness/hardness to cushion things properly. I think tires are around 70 Shore hardness, which might be too hard. No-one knows what the hardness of the original rubber is? That's probably lost to time. The rubber in my existing mount is pretty soft, but may have been affected by the oil soaking it.

Last edited by klhansen; 01/12/2021 1:48 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,839
What is the correct thickness of the rubber?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
I just measured my original. 1/4" on either side of the plate that bolts to the crossmember. I have some 2 part polyurethane that's Shore 40 on order. I'm going to try that. If it doesn't pan out. I'll go another approach.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,450
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,450
kilhansen In the fifties for flat mount work we used coal belt,it is tuff,kind of hard to punch holes in, butwith a tuff belt punch you can do it. I have some homemade flex couplings made 20 years ago still OK. Have one my Dad made in the fifties still good. These however are not oil soaked,a racing pal said if it didnt leak oil it wouldn't be a chevy LOL !!

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'Bolter
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Measuring the gap in my spare transmission support I get around 3/8" to 5/16". Can't say ever remember replacing the rubber pad. Need to crawl under my truck....

The rubber supports are 3/8" thick. No idea where I got them, but it was apparently back in 2004. Remind me of a piece of tire sidewall. Has belt material in the middle.
Attachments
IMG_1941.JPG (221.86 KB, 204 downloads)
IMG_1940.JPG (246.25 KB, 210 downloads)


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,839
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I stand corrected. I went under my truck to find two rubber pieces about 1/4" thick. One between the upper bolt to tranny plate and the main plate which attaches to the cross member and the other rubber piece between the main plate and the smaller plate underneath.
Attachments
IMG_1944.JPG (179.83 KB, 189 downloads)
IMG_1946.JPG (152.34 KB, 186 downloads)
IMG_1947.JPG (144.24 KB, 184 downloads)


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,307
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,307
Bills truck parts sells the rubber for the mount ,the price is not listed but may be feasible with the low Canadian dollar. Page 137 or 139 price 8.50 thinking Canadian if so about 5 .00 US dollars
Attachments

Last edited by KEVINSKI; 01/14/2021 3:44 PM. Reason: More imfo

1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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'Bolter
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KEVINSKI,
Thanks for the info. Here's what I copied from their website.

Rear Transmission Mount Repair Pads w/Bolts # 40-216 - 2 pads/2 bolts 47-55 $8.50

I have sent them an email to confirm the thickness of the rubber but now that I've studied this a little more, with bolts and nuts replacing the rivets, I think some rubber pads pads a little thicker, will probably do the job.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Cleaned up the tranny mount and poured some polyurethane rubber in the space between the plates today.
Pic 1 - Burning out the old rubber. It was about half rotted away.
Pic 2 - Mold made of a piece of 1/4" plywood for the top side. Used silicone grease around the edges so I can get it back off.
Pic 3 - Mold for the bottom side out of 3/8" plywood
Pic 4 - What I used for the molding. I mixed 6 ounces, but only needed a little over 1 ounce.
Pic 5 - Rubber poured in from the top side with the mount vertical and front down.
Attachments
IMG_3646.JPG (194.66 KB, 112 downloads)
IMG_3648.JPG (197.97 KB, 114 downloads)
IMG_3649.JPG (189.45 KB, 115 downloads)
IMG_3650.JPG (270.18 KB, 115 downloads)
IMG_3653.JPG (233.57 KB, 113 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Pic 1 - Photo of the bottom with rubber poured in. Had a slight leak around the front side, so had to stick a shop rag in there to stop it from oozing out. blush

It's setting up now. I'll post more pics once I get the molds stripped off. I think it's going to work well.
Attachments
IMG_3654.JPG (247.71 KB, 104 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Looks like it should work. Nice job! thumbs_up


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Thanks, Phil

Here's the finished product. I think the hardness of the rubber is perfect. Doesn't squish a lot, but does allow some movement, so should be a good vibration isolator. The same company sells a harder rubber product, but I think it would be too hard for this application. If this stuff could be colored (don't know if it can) it would be good for tool handle dipping. Feels real durable.

The material cost me under $40, and just a couple hours of work. I'd recommend it for others who need to fix their tranny mount.
Attachments
IMG_3655.JPG (213.61 KB, 87 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
Which Durometer did you use?


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,039
Supposed to be Shore 40 A. The other option was Shore 80 A, which is harder than a typical shoe heel. Not enough give.

This is what I bought

Last edited by klhansen; 01/20/2021 1:54 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
Good to know. When you get it installed and have a few miles on her, let us know if it was a success or not. Thanks!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

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