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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,062 Posts1,055,854 Members48,428 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) | | Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 | I am doing a firewall mounted, power brake conversion on my 58 and as a side effect I have a bunch of spare/unneeded holes in the floor (old MC fill, brake light switch mounts, pedal hole, etc) that I want to fill.
I could weld them shut, but I don't want to do too permanent of a "fix" in case someone eventually wants to out this cab back to stock.
I am thinking about getting some of that foil backed butyl rubber mat and covering the whole floor as a sound/heat barrier. It is self-adhesive, so it would stick over the holes and seal them against moisture/dirt intrusion.
Any better suggestions? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1,004 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1,004 | I have plugged holes with small metal patches with closed cell foam gasket on the outside patch against cab and a second patch or shape inside that bolts or screws the two together through the hole This allows for ready removal if I want to modify it to run a wire or hose later and also doesn’t change the cab metal from stock A double sided metal patch is stronger against debris and fire And the gasket keeps it dust and water tight This method is likely overkill for small holes and your time might be worth more than mine  -s | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | I am doing a firewall mounted, power brake conversion on my 58 and as a side effect I have a bunch of spare/unneeded holes in the floor (old MC fill, brake light switch mounts, pedal hole, etc) that I want to fill.
I could weld them shut, but I don't want to do too permanent of a "fix" in case someone eventually wants to out this cab back to stock.
I am thinking about getting some of that foil backed butyl rubber mat and covering the whole floor as a sound/heat barrier. It is self-adhesive, so it would stick over the holes and seal them against moisture/dirt intrusion.
Any better suggestions? That is exactly what I do to "cover" extra holes. I do that because it is in the same vein as what the factory did with all of the unused factory holes on these trucks. They used an asphalt looking material on the inside.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) | | Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 | I have plugged holes with small metal patches with closed cell foam gasket on the outside patch against cab and a second patch or shape inside that bolts or screws the two together through the hole This allows for ready removal if I want to modify it to run a wire or hose later and also doesn’t change the cab metal from stock A double sided metal patch is stronger against debris and fire And the gasket keeps it dust and water tight This method is likely overkill for small holes and your time might be worth more than mine  -s That seems like a good plan for the larger ones (like the MC fill). I might do the rubber cover over the whole thing, then cut it out of the bigger holes and put plugs like that in. Thanks for the suggestions! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 | Similar to the above, I'm sure it would work fine without a cover, but personally for larger holes I usually make sheetmetal caps (and usually get fancy and play with the bead roller on larger ones), paint them and then screw or rivet them in before I cover em up. After that I have used the butyl backed sound deadening stuff and yes, it works fantastic. And does a good job on smaller holes. I do that as I figure dust/dirt/grime might work its way underneath the surrounding area and maybe cause other issues down the road, although... I'm probably worrying about nothing
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
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