I bought one from Jim Carter and it seems to be decent. I haven't installed it because there's a rebuild plate fastened to my valve cover where the decal would go. I'm thinking of moving that plate to the forward section of the valve cover so I can install the decal.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I bought a decal and made a photocopy of it, cut out the letters with an exacto knife and used it as a stencil and sprayed the valve cover with yellow. I did 3 valve covers with that stencil before it became too laden with paint to be used anymore.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Kevin--the rebuild plate on the valve cover is very cool! I would leave the plate where it is. How about placing the decal in its proper location, and then fasten the rebuild plate over the top of the decal, returning the plate to its "original" position?
Kevin, I hadn’t seen this tag on your 51 project before , might have just missed it. But it is almost unique, and I would not mess with it! How many ‘51 pickups have Alaska Road Commission, 1954 dated short block engine replacement, all standard pistons and bearings, Tags on them? Only yours, I’m guessing! This was not only Territorial Days, but pre-Department of Commerce days! C
~Charley 1954 Chevy 3100 with 235 “Bud” Follow along in the DITY 1963 Chevy half ton stepside short box 230 1954 GMC 3 ton 302 And several more Chevy camper and work trucks 1979 1987 1996
I like 52Carl's idea of making a stencil and then spray painting. I did this when restoring hubcaps on my '51. I bought vinyl decals from Jim Carter and when I went to apply them, they were die cut out of a strip of vinyl. I ended up using the background strip as a template and it came out very nice. And still is 20 years later. I have seen the Thriftmaster decals on restored engines and they just sort of look like... decals! Kent
Kevin--the rebuild plate on the valve cover is very cool! I would leave the plate where it is. How about placing the decal in its proper location, and then fasten the rebuild plate over the top of the decal, returning the plate to its "original" position?
That's a thought. I was thinking of welding the screw holes shut and installing the plate toward the front, but that would entail repainting the valve cover. @Steelonsteel That rebuild plate was what sold me on the truck. Definite proof that it was an ARC vehicle. I'm pretty sure it's unique. When Alaska became a state in 1959, all the Alaska Road Commission assets got transferred to Alaska's Department of Transportation. Between 1932 and 1956 the ARC was part of the US Department of Interior. Between 56 and 59 it was under the Department of Commerce.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You can purchase printable waterslide decal paper and make your own decals of any type. I've shown how to do this several times before...and have donated free use speedometer and gauge decals (they're here someplace). Very easy to do and heat does not affect them. Here are a couple of tips: this paper comes in either white background or clear...your printer will not print in white so if you need any part of your decal to be white purchase the white background. This paper comes in either laser print or inkjet print. If you're using an inkjet printer, you must spray the completed decal with clear (enamel, urethane, etc) or your decal will vanish when you dip it in water. If there is a Fed Ex/Kinkos near you, have them use their very expensive laser printer to print your decal. This costs about $2 or $3 for an 8.5 x 11 sheet and is well worth it as they have color laser ability. I've attached some others I've made for other folks or for myself. You can increase the size or decrease it as needed. If you need help with curved script, please tell me.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end