I took my generator apart today in hopes of cleaning and painting the casing. Unfortunately when I opened it up it appears like something has melted inside. It worked when I took the truck apart.
I have rebuilt about everything else in the truck and am hoping to start putting it back together when it comes back from the paint shop next week. While I don't want to go down another rabbit hole of hunting down a rebuild kit I also don't want to cut corners.
That's a pretty neat trick- - - -making a "generator" from a starter! If it was working OK before you disassembled it, don't worry about the deterioration of the insulation. If it makes you feel better, use an air gun to blow away any loose stuff and mix up some 2 part epoxy cement to recoat that area of the armature. Don't increase the diameter enough that it will drag on the housing. You should change the brushes and bushings while you've got it apart. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Don't disturb anything that's still stuck tight- - - -just blow the loose stuff away and use something like a stiff bristle artist's brush to apply a thick coat of epoxy to the area, especially the bare spots. You don't want to create a short between the windings and the armature laminations if one doesn't exist now. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Add a small amount of acetone to JB Weld to thin it enough to paint it on. The acetone will evaporate out and the JB Weld will cure as normal.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Doesn't JB Weld have metallic powder in it? I don't think that would be a good idea around high current DC armature windings. Plain old 2-part epoxy is an insulator. I've seen JB Weld rust when used to patch engine block cracks. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I thought it was plain epoxy but I'm probably wrong. They have several versions, though one is plastic, etc.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I found brushes, bushings and springs for my GMC starter at O'Reilly's. A little clean up on the armature (DON'T use Emory cloth, the remains conduct electricity) and it has run 20,000+ miles with no problems.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
