Let me reassure you, the brass synchronizers are for a non-world class. The world class use a fiber lined synchronizer ring. Both NWC and WC use a brass synchronizer ring on 5th gear. The photo you show is from my website.
I’d like to hear more about your T5 plans.
Here’s a video I made that you might find helpful. VIDEO LINK.
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Thank you.
"Commonly quoted life advice I dont even try to live by." -Famous Person
I’m 99% sure you can use the 26 spline shaft you have and switch to a 26 spline clutch disc. I did a little test a few weeks ago with the same T5 you have. I used an adapter plate and kept the 26 spline shaft. It worked but I only drove around the block because the T5 badly needs a rebuild. It was whining worse than a spoiled teenager.
The Jeep shaft swap will also work. With the adapter plate the Jeep shaft doesn’t need to have the pilot tip trimmed. Since the Jeep shaft is a NWC shaft, you need to switch to a brass synchro for the input shaft instead of the fiber lined WC style synchro. It will mostly depend on how available parts are. The 10 spline clutch kits are very common.
This video will help explain how the Jeep shaft swap works with a WC T5. Watch the whole thing for all the details but skip to the 8:00 minute mark for now to see. Jeep swap video
Photo attached is a muncie cast iron bell with a 1994-95 S10 T5 and adapter plate WITH a Jeep shaft swap. The measurements all match up so it will just bolt right up with a 10 spline clutch kit.
I’m 99% sure you can use the 26 spline shaft you have and switch to a 26 spline clutch disc. I did a little test a few weeks ago with the same T5 you have. I used an adapter plate and kept the 26 spline shaft. It worked but I only drove around the block because the T5 badly needs a rebuild. It was whining worse than a spoiled teenager.
The Jeep shaft swap will also work. With the adapter plate the Jeep shaft doesn’t need to have the pilot tip trimmed. Since the Jeep shaft is a NWC shaft, you need to switch to a brass synchro for the input shaft instead of the fiber lined WC style synchro.
This video will help explain how the Jeep shaft swap works with a WC T5. Watch the whole thing for all the details but skip to the 8:00 minute mark for now to see. Jeep swap video
Sorry i forgot to specify, i want to utilize the stock clutch on the 261, which is why im wanting to go the jeep route. I also would like to avoid the adapter such as in this method. https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weeb...ap---diy-and-skip-the-adapter-plate.html But i assume thats not possible bolting to a 261 bellhousing?
"Commonly quoted life advice I dont even try to live by." -Famous Person
That would be a definite YES, on the existing bell housing and 3 speed!
Assuming the bell housing picture you posted above is the one coming off the S10, that is the "Fxrd" pattern T5 you have which requires the adapter plate to marry up the T5 to the original "Muncie" pattern truck bell housing.
Dan
Last edited by Gdads51; 08/30/202310:22 PM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
That would be a definite YES, on the existing bell housing and 3 speed!
Assuming the bell housing picture you posted above is the one coming off the S10, that is the "Fxrd" pattern T5 you have which requires the adapter plate to marry up the T5 to the original "Muncie" pattern truck bell housing.
That one certainly indicates it will fill the need.
Please come back and post follow ups and pics as the T5 install progresses. Many folks will be watching and looking for updates and comments or questions.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I noticed that https://hotrodworks.com/ has 2 adapters that would fit my application, but with different size center holes. So im ordering the one with the smaller center hole as that matches the measurement of the hole in the bellhousing i took off the trans. 4.67" or so.
"Commonly quoted life advice I dont even try to live by." -Famous Person
I’m gonna throw in a plug for Dave Farwell. He makes a nice adapter plate that will meet your needs. He’s also about as nice a person as you could meet anywhere. He responds to my questions promptly by text or email too. BEFORE you order the adapter plate, check to see what size the center bore hole is IN YOUR 1951 BELL. The adapter plate has a machined area that must match your bell bore hole size. ALL Chevy T5 transmissions have a 4 + 11/16” diameter retainer bearing. So that’s why your T5 bell has that size hole. Not all Chevy bells have the same size bore hole. Some are about 5.125”.
Lastly, the adapter plate gets bolted to the bell by either of 2 methods. 1. Remove the bell from the engine and bolt the plate to the bell. Then bolt the bell back on the engine. 2. Leave the bell on the engine and remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Flywheel stays in place. Then bolt the plate to the bell and finally replace the pressure plate and clutch disc.
The reason is because the upper 2 bolts that hold the plate to the bell go through the plate from INSIDE the bell and you can’t install them unless you get the clutch package out of the way.
I’m gonna throw in a plug for Dave Farwell. He makes a nice adapter plate that will meet your needs. He’s also about as nice a person as you could meet anywhere. He responds to my questions promptly by text or email too. BEFORE you order the adapter plate, check to see what size the center bore hole is IN YOUR 1951 BELL. The adapter plate has a machined area that must match your bell bore hole size. ALL Chevy T5 transmissions have a 4 + 11/16” diameter retainer bearing. So that’s why your T5 bell has that size hole. Not all Chevy bells have the same size bore hole. Some are about 5.125”.
Lastly, the adapter plate gets bolted to the bell by either of 2 methods. 1. Remove the bell from the engine and bolt the plate to the bell. Then bolt the bell back on the engine. 2. Leave the bell on the engine and remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Flywheel stays in place. Then bolt the plate to the bell and finally replace the pressure plate and clutch disc.
The reason is because the upper 2 bolts that hold the plate to the bell go through the plate from INSIDE the bell and you can’t install them unless you get the clutch package out of the way.
thank you. good to know. I was hoping to order all these parts while still driving the truck. But i'll tear it down to measure the bell. Or perhaps, get a casting number off the bell..?
I didnt hear back from dave. I'll give it a few more days.
"Commonly quoted life advice I dont even try to live by." -Famous Person
I have a t5 in my 54 3100 and my only regret is when I am in heavy slow traffic and have to creep forward. Best of luck with your install.
Your highway gear ratio in your rear axle is what is causing you those creeping woes. A 3.73 or as high as 4.64 makes for useful creeping in first gear in slow traffic.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I just received my aftermarket S10 tail housing with the cable speedo connection. These have been available for about 3 years now and the reviews are good. Add a shim on the main shaft to install the correct drive and driven gears at the correct location. Then use the S10 cover plate with correct S10 shift rail with this piece and you can make your T5 work with a cable speedometer. S10 shift rails are available if you need to swap out a Camaro shift rail.
