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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 | I have my cab ready to for paint. It has been repaired, primed and sanded and is literally ready to spray finish paint onto. I have single stage Urethane paint, and I'm interested in knowing if it is OK to apply it in this hot weather. It's going to start out each day this week in the low 70s, but will rise into the 90s by mid afternoon. I definately would not paint at the hot point of the day. My question is: would it be OK to paint with the temp in the 70s, knowing that it will get much hotter before the paint is cured?
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2023 Posts: 58 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2023 Posts: 58 | Yes its perfectly fine. Just mind the humidity. Thats the real pain. Early morning is my choice, for better temps and fewer bugs. Follow the manuf's instructions on temp and humidity and it should work great. What gun and tip size are you using?
"Commonly quoted life advice I dont even try to live by." -Famous Person
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 | Im definately an amateur. I have a Divilbis Finish Line gun with a 1.3 tip.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,156 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,156 | Some paints require different primers reducers for different temperature ranges. F'rinstance, one for warm weather, and one for cool weather, etc. Check the spec sheet on your paint.
Last edited by klhansen; 07/25/2023 3:07 AM. Reason: OOPS
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,293 Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum | | Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,293 | I would guess you have a copy of the Technical Data Sheet for the single stage paint, if not, get one. Follow the recommended tip size for the HVLP gun you are using. Paint in the morning during the cooler temps, allow the rcommended flash time between coats. I dealt with similar weather conditions last year and had no problems. The AkzoNobel polyurethane single stage I used did not require a reducer. If yours does, be sure to follow the recommended reducer for the approximate temperature range for the environment you plan to spray the paint in. Reducers types are slow, medium, and fast. The type indicates has fast the solvents will evaporate and the paint flashes and starts to cure. I'm an amatuer but had good results with the single stage.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel." | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,260 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,260 | Kevin, he's spraying his final coats. Primer is done.
Mike, check with your paint manufacturer. Most offer different speed reducer/activators for temperature. I sprayed plenty of times at 4 in the morning, knowing that the natural oven will help cure it later in the day. More important, it seems, is not the ambient temperature, but the substrate temperature. I always have a temp gun with me and the moment my surface I'm going to spray, hits the mid 70's, I'll start to apply paint. Checking between coats. Plenty of times the air has been in the 60's, but the metal temp was the proper temp for spraying. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,156 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,156 | Kevin, he's spraying his final coats. Primer is done. I typed primer, but meant reducer. 
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 | Thanks guys for the info. My paint is PPG shop line, and I bought medium reducer. I will double check the data sheet before painting, to make sure that I"m working in the temperature range that's correct for that reducer.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,509 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,509 | PPG and many others make a high temp reducer. Many call it slow-dry and if you look at the "ingredients" you will see it is a different animal. If there's a chance you'll be painting at 80 degrees or above, I'd use that. All it does is to allow a little more time for your paint to lay down and flow. Slower drying can help you avoid orange peel. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | If you've already purchased your thinner based on a cooler temperature, most paint lines can also be used with a retarder to slow the process. You don't want things flashing/drying too fast. Check with your PPG rep. | | |
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