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#1510135 07/22/2023 8:28 PM
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'Bolter
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So today I learned my lesson about ordering parts just assuming everything is the same instead of taking some measurments and now I have a conundrum.

I orderd some clamps and spacer rings to mount the dayton wheels I purchases to my axles before I install them on my truck so that way I can move them around easier. When I went outside I found out I had ordered to small of a ring which sucks cause now I am out 100 bucks and will have to pay restocking fees. Then I decided to try mounting the fronts and found out the clamps that I orderd were too short and won't work for the 20in rims I have tires on or my 22.5 floater rims and now I am out even more.

So I am wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction of the clamps because I am honestly at a loss for what I should get now I will post some pictures to give a idea of what I am dealing with.
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PXL_20230722_194326381.jpg (184.53 KB, 98 downloads)
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PXL_20230722_194330537.jpg (179.89 KB, 98 downloads)
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PXL_20230722_194255709.jpg (180.23 KB, 98 downloads)
PXL_20230722_194301286.jpg (391.77 KB, 98 downloads)


1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes
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'Bolter
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Hy Thick Chevy, Dayton front wheel clamps are basically flat, their center holes are either 5/8" or 3/4". Could you tell us your stud diameter? Do you have a big truck parts supply place close to you?

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'Bolter
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all of my studs are 3/4 x 10 that is the one thing I measured and checked and actually got right

And yes tommorrow I am going to a junk yard to try and find the stuff I need since no on else carries dayton stuff on hand and this guy has piles of dayton rims so I am going out there tommorrow because I can't afford to buy all new stuff again


1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 81
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'Bolter
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and this time I am taking a tape measure


1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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You could also take a picture of yours to compare to one’s you find in a yard for comparison.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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'Bolter
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Or I can drive out there and figure out that I have no idea what I am doing with this stuff and that I just was trying to do it all backwards and I have the right rings. The only thing I need to do now is get some clamps for the front wheels but I am going to try to put the back ones on today.


1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 81
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'Bolter
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Last edited by Thick Chevy; 07/24/2023 6:37 PM.

1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 81
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'Bolter
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Yep can confirm the stuff I ordered for the rear 100% works
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PXL_20230724_221832759.jpg (490.65 KB, 51 downloads)
PXL_20230724_215552434.jpg (400.68 KB, 51 downloads)
PXL_20230724_215704638.jpg (494.27 KB, 51 downloads)


1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,470
Bond Villain
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One other thing to think about ... Once the truck is operable, you will want to go back and insure you have the wheels tightened down evenly to eliminate wheel wobble.

Most of us do that by keeping the axle jacked up so you can rotate the wheel and tire freely by hand. Next, place a paint can, coffee can -- anything that will stand close to the tire and act as a guide. You will find that as you spin the tire, it will vary as to how close it gets to your guide. Figure out where it is too close and tighten that clamp more. Spin the tire again and fix the next "eccentric." Keep spinning and tightening until you've taken all the wobble out. Sometimes you may have to loosen things a bit and start over if you start getting too tight.

It's best to do this on a hard, level surface.

Its harder to explain than to actually do. Can be slightly time consuming at first but the more you do it, the better you get.


~ John

"We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"

1948 International Farmall Super A
1949 Chevrolet 3804
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'Bolter
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That is the plan once I get the axle in since it will be easier to rotate without it wobbling and trying to move the whole axle when I spin it and its definitely going to take a while to learn.


1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes
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'Bolter
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Another safety tip, if you ever need to remove a rim from the hub, loosen the clamp nuts to the end of the stud but don't take them off. Then hit the sidewall of the tire with a big sledge hammer and the rim will pop...the nuts keep the clamps from being dangerous projectiles as they are under lots of pressure.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
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1956 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
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'Bolter
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Yep that was one thing I saw researching how to true them was just loosen the nuts a little and then give the clamps a good wack or the tire. I have no interest in a brain injury or face redesign.


1967 Chevy c50 327 w/ sm465 5000Ib front 15k 2 speed rear w/ 22k springs, single axle, hydraulic brakes

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