I recently bought a 49 Chevy 6400 5 window flatbed. I am trying to separate the front hubs from the drum. It will not release. Does anyone know if I am missing anything? I have removed all the bolts, the spindle nut and outer bearings. I have 'tapped' the hub and soaked it with PB Blaster for days. It will not come off. Is there something else holding it on?? Or do I just need a bigger hammer??
I have tried several times to attach a Pic, but it keeps timing out on the upload after 30 seconds, which is not enough time with my slow internet service.
If at first you don't succeed . . . er . . . then skydiving may NOT be for you!
According to the 1948-51 Shop Manual (see the 1st and 2nd screenshots below), you must first remove the entire hub and drum assembly together from the spindle. Your pictures indicate you have already completed removing the cap, spindle nut, washer and outer bearing. Next step is to pull the whole kit and caboodle off the spindle. If it doesn't want to come off, you will need to back off the brake shoe adjusters (possibly a bunch) and probably give some persuasion to the drum to to get the shoes to free up from the drum to allow for full hub and drum removal. If what I understand of the instructions is correct, before you attempt to press the hub from the drum, you will need to remove the inner hub seal and bearing before moving on to the next step.
Once you have the entire assembly off the spindle, follow the steps in the 2nd screen shot to press the hub off the drum studs. Some of your fellow Big Bolters that have tackled this before will probably come along and add their helpful hints and tips. It may be possible to manually drive the hub off the drum using a suitable piece of wood and a big hammer, but I can't say for sure myself as I haven't ever worked on that sized hub and drum. It may also help to apply some heat to the areas of the hub that surround the studs to help free up a stubborn hub.
I also added a picture of the exploded front axle/hub diagram to help you see all the bits and pieces that make up your hub and drum assembly and provide a reference when it's time to reassemble.
Hope this info helps???
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Looking forward to seeing/hearing results of your hub disassembly!
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Unless you are replacing the drums there is no reason to remove the hub...put the nuts back on and remove the entire assembly as Dan has suggested. If you need to have the drums turned that can be done with the hub still on the drum.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Thanks Mike! I just thought the Hubs had to be removed to get to the drum. That's good info. I presume I can get to the inner bearings to replace them once the drum is off???? Or will the Hub have to come off to get to them. I 'spec' I'll know the answer to that ONCE I get the drums off. :0)
If at first you don't succeed . . . er . . . then skydiving may NOT be for you!
OK, I got the Drum off. Geeezzzzeee! I'm in Mississippi, heat index has consistently been hovering around 105 to 110 degrees. Humidity is high and no breeze, except for the fan I have blowing. Anyway, luckily, the wheel was turned slightly and I 'guessed' correctly on which way would loosen the Brake Shoes. But only AFTER I had soaked the Wheel Cylinders with WD40 and hammered on them with a screwdriver thru the slot. Anyway, what a mess. The grease has 'liquified' and the shoe spring is broken. Wheel cylinders look like that are heavily rusted shut. However, the shoes look pretty good considering. Next is to order new wheel cylinders all the way around along with brake hoses. Oh, and new wheel bearings. I found some 10.5 wheels at a junk yard that will fit and I will be able to replace those 'split rims', since no one wants to work on them here locally. Here's a couple pics:
That is a two ton truck, one can replace front spindles/hubs with disc brake units without the tires sticking out of the fenders if one wishes, relatively easy job.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Timer, not sure if you were asking about power steering box that bolts into original location(CPP) has them, or putting disc brake hubs/spindles on your truck.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
OK, now to the Rear Hubs. The shoe adjustment mechanism is different than the front. https://ibb.co/bN7YtYz It has TWO 5/8 bolts that are spring loaded. I have turned them in various combinations, but get NO movement on the Drum. Does the 10 bolt 'flange' need to come off first? https://ibb.co/72pCCZL Or does it come off in one piece like the front one did? And any ideas on getting the drum off, I DO have a bigger hammer!
If at first you don't succeed . . . er . . . then skydiving may NOT be for you!
Ed, I was inquiring about the Disc Brake conversion. I know there are a LOT of companies out there, but not many deal with Big Bolt conversions. Thanks
If at first you don't succeed . . . er . . . then skydiving may NOT be for you!
I'm pretty sure I can get that diagram. May not be until tomorrow morning as dinner chores beckon (burgers on the grille).
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Dan, glad to see your priorities are in order! LOL My wife makes them with Onions, Mushrooms and Cheese blended into the meat. Then, her own spices and sauces, marinates it overnight, and man-o-man, hard to just eat 4 of 'em. LOL I appreciate any help you can give. Enjoy that burger!
If at first you don't succeed . . . er . . . then skydiving may NOT be for you!
OK - I found this in another forum: "There are two adjusting nuts on each backing plate. Turn the nuts in a counter clock wise direction to loosen. If you take off the wheels, there are a few screws holding on the drum." However, I do not see or cannot find any screws holding on the drum. https://ibb.co/72pCCZL
If at first you don't succeed . . . er . . . then skydiving may NOT be for you!
Attached below are the pics I found that I think you are looking for???
Includes the general rear brake exploded view and general rear axle for a 1-1/2 Ton (basic brakes/axle diagrams less the 2 speed pumpkin as they are same for all Series 4000-6000 trucks from what I could find) and the exploded view of the "vacuum shifted" 2 speed axle pumpkin (used the vacuum shifted pic as that's what was spec'd in the GM Heritage site for your 1949 Chevrolet Truck data).
I added the brake diagram in case it may help you get yours disassembled.
Let me know if there are other diagrams or details I may be able to try and help with (should probably go in a new thread to keep this one about your original topic).
Dan
Last edited by Gdads51; 08/01/20232:53 PM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I believe that like the front drum, you must remove the drum and hub assembly as a unit.
Means removing the axle stub, which means removing the 5 bolts on the hub outer cap and then the axle and hub retaining hardware and bearings, etc.
Check out the exploded diagram of the axle (2nd pic) in my reply above to see how it all goes together/comes apart.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)