If so, have you read the descriptions below the 3 sample charts to understand what the marks mean using the "continuity" test results in your charts?
The marks indicate wires that have continuity (for lack of a more detailed description a circuit for each light fixture/component) depending on the position of the switch (Off/Left/Right). I think to make sense of it all, you need to identify which colored wires you have listed go to which component and then you can hopefully correlate if each circuit is correctly wired.
I'm certainly no expert in this and hopefully another member may be able to better explain what you have.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
.. and it wouldn't hurt to identify what kind of turn signal switch you are working with. Signal Stat 900 (or one of it's many clones), stock GM, etc.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
T-Doug.....Hopefully you are testing just the turn signal with NO wires hooked up to anything except to continuity tester. I am following your charrt. I see you crossed out a few things as you went. Shows you were making mistakes. Chart seems like it is not right. (of course it is possible switch is no good, we will see)
1. Make a new chart. Draw on new paper. Don't look at old chart. 2. Don't revise the old chart. Leave it on here. 3. Post new chart and I will go over it again. List the colors the same way as old chart. You are doing fine, just be more carefull. I see you used the word "neutral" instead of "OFF". That's OK, you are saying lever is in the middle.
Tripple check your work. If wires are faded, be sure Pink, Purple, BLU and GRN don't get confused. Your chart shows this confusion. Look at colors of wires in a place where they have not been exposed, like inside bell.
From pics I see it may be a "factory" original optional turn signal.
That appears to be a stock switch. I drew the diagram below when I was troubleshooting one in 2006. The switch is shown three times. Top one is with the switch "off", ie. in the middle position. The second is with the switch signaling a right turn and the third is signaling a left turn. The black dots are the fixed contacts in the switch and the yellow pieces are the sliding contacts.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
When I zoom up, looks like there is a LT BLU. Not GRN. May be quicker to temp wire it up than make a chart. The colors on the switch don't have to match truck wire colors to sockets. Use the info given by Bill and I to test.
Use wire nuts or non permanent method at first. This will also give good access for voltage testing if necessary.
Pretty sure this will work: LT BLU...........LF YEL...................Flasher Input DK BLU..........RF Purple................RR Pink.............LR WHT..................Brake Switch Input
Use a 5A fuse for power to flasher.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Big shout out to Bill and Bartamos.. used the suggested connections and everything works... except the brake switch is bad...crossed the connections and brakes came on so happy days here.
Thanks for all the patient help..
Now on to upolstery... that will be in the journal going forward..
1954 Chevy 3100 One problem solved doesn’t seem to shorten the list Montgomery, AL In Project Journals