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'Bolter
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The bottom of the cowl side panel... the hole at the bottom. What is the purpose of this hole? If it is for drainage, can't we make that lower cowl area water tight? Front of side sill, just behind floor brace. That single hole. What is the purpose of that single hole (on both sides)? What are the ramifications if I weld it shut?
Thanks
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IMG_5773.jpg (269.96 KB, 223 downloads)
IMG_5774.jpg (182.61 KB, 223 downloads)


1952 Chevy 3100
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Do you plan to omit the louvers above it on passenger side? Lots of water can get in those louvers. I would leave the bottom hole so it can drain out.


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
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Agree with Skooter, water can get in there and have no place to go..both sides.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
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Just the kind of guidance I needed... the holes at the bottom of each outside, side cowl stay open, now how about that other hole that is on the side sill, just behind the floor brace, on both sides? Thanks


1952 Chevy 3100
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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I didn't have a hole in the rocker panel, either original or replacements. If the hole lines up with the hinge pillar, it might have been put there for welding purposes (like plug welding.)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Is there any such drainage considerations for the rear cab corners? Thanks


1952 Chevy 3100
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Originally Posted by Gib70
Is there any such drainage considerations for the rear cab corners? Thanks


Yes , there are exit slots on the bottom of each cab corner. If you need photo's, let me know.

Last edited by Dusty53; 07/03/2023 6:11 PM.

Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Is there any such drainage considerations for the rear cab corners? Thanks

Yes , there are exit slots on the bottom of each cab corner. If you need photo's, let me know.


Those lower-rear cab-corners are often rotted-out --- it was common for mice to make nests there - the holes got clogged with mouse nests and mice urinate where they sleep.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by tclederman
....and mice urinate where they sleep.
Actually, mice urinate CONTINUOUSLY. eek


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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What good are mice?

Cat food?

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Gentlemen... I could use a picture of the cab corner slots... just put some new ones in and "they ain't had no slots"... I am happy to try to duplicate what is supposed to be there. Thanks
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IMG_5769.jpg (306.69 KB, 139 downloads)
IMG_5779.jpg (227.33 KB, 140 downloads)


1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Here you go. Small hole toward the front end. I don't have a pic of the original cab corner, but I recall that it was a small louver shaped hole in the same relative position. The opening was aimed toward the back of the truck.
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IMG_2684.JPG (173.71 KB, 135 downloads)
CAB CORNER SHOWING DRAIN HOLE


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 224
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'Bolter
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Those slots are useful for draining any water out, but, they really plug up easily.
I think regularly making sure dirt and debris doesn’t collect there would contribute
to longevity. Its when debris and urine and water sit in there that the rust out happens.


~Charley
1954 Chevy 3100 with 235
261 project engine
“Ole Blackie”
Follow along in the DITY
1963 Chevy half ton stepside short box 230
1954 GMC 3 ton 302
And several more Chevy camper and work trucks 1979 1987 1996
1931 Packard car, 327 i 8 auto
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I am thinking I might try something like what you find at the bottom of an air compressor... something that I can twist open and "let the water out" and then close it back up with a twist of the wrist... does that resonate with anyone?

and as always Kevin... thanks for the picture... any chance of getting you down to Raleigh, NC to finish doing my cab welding right? Love the consistency and the pentation evidence. I am going to try harder to duplicate.


1952 Chevy 3100
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that's PENETRATION... I must be tired (or old)... or both.


1952 Chevy 3100
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The drain slot in the cab corners is pretty much a groove cut through and then an "eyelid" opened up to allow drainage. The opening faces rearward. Here is a picture of one on my cab but you can see it has been partially closed by sitting the cab on the ground. Hope this helps make sense of it. Somewhere, there is a factory book that explains the cab ventilation design that shows it better.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/albums/72157649468726416 Thanks to Brad Allen
Attachments
10-25-14 cab repair and grinding 022.JPG (116.21 KB, 93 downloads)

Last edited by Greg_H; 07/04/2023 3:41 PM.
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Pat, except for 3 or 4 tacks by the drain hole, those were done with a spot welder. Unfortunately probably not much chance of me getting to NC to help out. But by the time you're done with your truck, you'll be an expert at welding. wink
Greg's pic show what I was trying to describe for the drain holes. The repop parts manufacturers thought it was easier to drill a hole rather than stamp a louvered slot in that piece. I actually thought about welding a small "hood" over the hole to prevent debris/water from getting thrown in there going down the road. It's too late now, as the cab is in primer and sitting about 4" off the floor currently. I might think about gluing something over those holes for that purpose.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
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Renaissance Man
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While one is going down the road, airflow will be going out of those drain holes, since they are exhaust ports for "The Cab That Breathes."
Unfortunately, any debris drug in from your feet and whatnot will eventually end up collecting in those exhaust port slots.
I wouldn't expect debris to enter into the cab from the drain holes.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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