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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 | My sheet metal is all coated with epoxy. It is all past the recoat time, Which I think was 5 or 7 days. The instructions say to scuff it after that time. What should I scuff it with to prep it for 2K Urethane primer?
Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | Get a few 3M scuff pads. They work well to put a little “tooth” on the epoxy.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | What brand epoxy did you use?
I use SPI, which if left to induce overnight instead of the normal 30 minutes, tends to thicken up a bit and give it better build properties. If I were doing this (since the 7 day window is expired) I’d use the opportunity to block out the panels and find highs/lows, metal bump a bit to address, then follow up with another dose of epoxy followed by your high build if desired. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | That's good advice from Robert on blocking now. I think the epoxy I'm using has a 5 day recoat window without scuffing.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 729 | The epoxy I used was Kirker. But some of the metal was sandblasted commercially, and the blasting guy put epoxy on it after blasting. I have no idea what brand he used.
Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,300 Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum | | Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,300 | I don't think the brand used by the blasting folks will have any impact since the repaint window is long closed. Block it , find the lows / highs, bump , fill , sand, recoat and get ready for that finish coat. I use black epoxy for the epoxy recoat after blocking/repair because it makes it very easy to see any imperfections and I have a chance to repair them before the finish coat.
Mike, we all really like pictures of your work....we are kinda strange that way.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel." | | | | | Joined: Apr 2017 Posts: 230 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2017 Posts: 230 | The data sheet that the manufacturer provides with the primer as well as well as the surfacer should specify the treatment needed.
Mike
1940 Chevy 1/2 Ton presently... Almost done
1940 Chevy Business Coupe... In pieces
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