The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starting a hot engine

1950 Chevy 6 Volt - I'm sure lots has been discussed about this previously, but I'm wondering if timing that is slightly off would cause the hard starting issue when hot. Or is it more likely electrical? Battery was new last Fall, starter was rebuilt just about 6 weeks ago, positive battery cable is 00 gauge. When it's cold, you couldn't ask for anything better for starting - hit the starter and it's running. When you try and start it hot, you get 2 or maybe 3 revolutions that are just a struggle for the engine and then it will seem to take off. Possibly a weak coil, bad condenser, and why is there a condenser inside the distributor cap (I know that needs to be there) and one on top of the coil. I have four other Chevy's here from the 40's & 50's and they don't have one on top of the coil, what is the purpose of that? Open to all advice on the hard starting problem - thanks in advance.
Tom

The condenser mounted external to the distributor housing is only for suppressing AM radio interference. It can be removed completely without any effect, good or bad, on a hot start. First, try cranking the engine with the ignition off. If it spins normally, you've got a timing issue. If it still struggles, you've either got pistons that are tightening up with heat expansion, or a starter issue that only presents itself with the engine at operating temperature. Battery voltage at the posts (not the terminals) should not drop below 4.5 volts with the engine turning. A good battery will be able to crank the engine for 20-30 seconds without dropping below that voltage. Obviously, every cable connection in both the hot and ground circuits must be CLEAN and TIGHT.
Jerry

You say your positive cable is 00 , your negative should also be 00 and on good clean metal.

3800 guy Will send you a PM about hard starting.

Why not post it here ?

It might be great info for other bolters 👍👍👍

fattboyzz Well stovebolt brass doesn't approve of my methods,so don't want to stir it. Will send you a PM about it if you want. I hate hard starting,vapor lock ,fuel leaks and all that too ! None of that in my 7 units.

Send it 👍

I had the same problem with my '51. Would start great when cold but when hot would not turn over at all. It was the ground cable connections that had corroded. Heat results in more resistance and if you have a marginal connection the additional resistance when hot causes the problem. Clean all of your battery cable connections and see if that helps.
Kent

fattboyzz Sent you some info,have done it for 44 years now,working good in this hot weather,just bump it after hot soak fires right up.

Late to the conversation, but I have the same problem and would love to see your methods fixite7. I care not a whit what the bigwigs think is too unconventional, experience is a lot more important to me than arrogance. Thanks for sharing.

I'm with Kent. My '49 started doing that last summer. Start fine cold. No cranking when hot. I cleaned the connections and replaced my battery cables with ones made from welding cable, and with the proper terminals.

No problems since.

Speaking as *the* "Big Wig" on this site... Years do not equal wisdom. And just because something has worked for an individual for years does not necessary meant that it is adviseable. It may only mean that he is lucky. Or it could be a good thing. So get it out in the open and let us decide.

But I am open minded and, apparently, wasting my time changing out my battery cables and cleaning all my connections (You're in this boat, too, Kent ). So please by all means share with us your special procedure Fixite so we may all be the judge and (possibly) benefit.

You may call it arrogance if you will. I call it being responsible and looking out for the health and safety of nearly 50,000 registered users who rely on this site for information sharing to help them with their projects. If we (the collective here on the site) can help one person stay safe while engaging in our hobby by warning them off a potentially dangerous or otherwise ill-advised bit of "redneck engineering", then call me arrogant all you want. But We will have done the right thing.

“My concern about my reputation is with the people who I respect, my family, and my Lord, and I’m perfectly comfortable with my reputation with them, Sir.”
-- John Durham

Maxine On my 51 6400 with the big radiator I use the same set-up as ANY propane forklift in America. This consists of an approved motor fuel tank,stainless braid 3/8 hose with fittings designed for hiway use. Then a fuel lock 12 volt or vacuum (so you could stay 6 volt)next an anti-freeze heated vaporizor and last a 1-barrel propane carburetor. As has been said over and over this is not rocket science !! I have 4 of these outfits mostly used parts that work fine. If it's hard to start a leaky vaporizor can flood it. On road trucks may need a larger vaporizor for hi-way speeds. Nothing unconventional they done it in the fifties,just over done it with loaded trucks. A lightweight AD truck ( my 51 6400 pickup weighs 5300 it's great) run it daily heat and cold.

So to be clear: your recommended fix for hard starting issues is to convert from gas to propane?

Fibonachu Well yes,fuel that vaporizes on it's own is great,when I discovered that a known cold natured engine was fixed from that problem for good I was sold on it !! No fuel pump,simple filter,clean oil,smooth running,root price of 1.15$ a gallon at noon today. It is a big surprise to me that no one in the forums has picked up on this,many of them have been thru it in industry,the military,surely some bolter has worked on a forklift. Back in the fifties they farmed with lpg and there was stuff left over and that is what I first used. A sharp neighbor of mine helped me see how simple it is. In ending don't try any of this at home.

John Milliman Had a message to you but in disappeared,check later.

John Milliman See what I told Maxene and fibonachu It's simple stuff that is working right,works best with HEI . Cold mornings truck is outdoors all night prime a little fires up and is not cold-natured in hot summer at operating temperature turn it off go in eat pie swig coffee shoot the breeze say an hour,go out fire right up. This morning was 2 hours still cool out but fired right up. Go on the internet look up forklift repairs,fuel locks,vaporizors,carburetors,motor fuel tanks can recognize the tanks because they have a whole row of accessories with a protective shroud. Now the stainless braid hose is mostly an LP dealer item,he should have a roll of it along with fittings tough enough to tow your truck. Fitting made to do this long term and safe. My hoses have slept in the garage since 2013 and if there is even a seep she will smell it. That is on my 04 GMC injected 1500 EPA certified outfit 70,000 so far. it's dual fuel and switches on it's own.

It's all coming back to me now.

We've covered the propane conversion in depth. I see no need to replow old ground here.

For those new to the conversation ... suffice it to say that there are easier, safer and less costly ways to improve your hot starting than to turn your truck into a potential bomb.

And those have been covered above.

Hank -- we had this discussion before and I warned you what would happen if you brought it up again. See you in a month. Good bye.

Thus endeth the discussion.