I am changing the motor in my '41 1/2 ton PU to a 235. A suggestion was made to change the center section in rear end to a 54/55 to get an open driveline. Is this an easy swap? Does it work? if so, where can I get more info.
Here's what I did. My '46 has a '61 261, original bell housing, T-5 trans, open drive line, diff gears are 3:08 (I know to high geared but it was free), donor rear end came from a '65 Chev truck, 6 lug.
If you do the center section swap you will need to change the pivot rear axle, cut off original rear axle brackets for solid mounts. Not a difficult swap.
Best of luck
Last edited by JiMerit Boltr#43; 05/25/20235:13 PM.
I think Ronsway is interested in doing a bolt in swap without having to change or modify anything.
Is there a specific reason you wanted a driveshaft instead of a torque tube? If your stuff is working now, why change it.
All the original, non-rebuilt stuff on my truck has over 3000 miles on it since last October. 216, 3 spd, torque tube, rear end all do what they're supposed to do without any fuss.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 05/25/202310:52 PM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
The reason is that my current transmission is so bad from a previous rebuild that I can't rebuild it. Unless I can find a rebuildable transmission then any upgrade would have an open drive line. Also the shop I am getting my motor from has all the hardware including a tremec 5 speed. I would like to keep as original as possible plus I am more of a "bolt-on mechanic" than a fabricator.
Maybe the pedal bracket from an AD (47-55) truck could be mounted on the frame. I have a spare. PM me.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Keep the original bell housing along with pedal mounting bracket/clutch etc from the 41. The 235 will bolt right up to your bell housing. The attached pic of my 46, shows original bell housing, original pedals and mounting bracket and the necessary adapter plate which mates the original bell housing to the T-5. The 47 and later pedals and master wont fit your 41.
Last edited by JiMerit Boltr#43; 05/31/20233:36 PM.
