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#1501843 05/23/2023 1:37 PM
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 74
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 74
Thinking since I am just going to get the truck rolling before doing a huge off frame project.
First thing I want to do is to replace the window and door seals to keep out the weather while it's stored outside.
From what I see is the door to cab seal is glued on, I'd hate to remove and replace the seals and not do anything about any rust under the seal. I don't want to start sanding and painting messing up the original paint, even tough a full paint job in the future in the plan.
Was told to use POR-15, also told that stuff is hard to remove once on there.
Is there any other alternatives or best way to tackle this project? Website Links? Videos?
Are there any seals that can push on instead of gluing? Like ones with a groove to push onto the cab edge?
Would like to replace the windshield and rear window seals, if not leaking, they can wait.

The goal is to make the truck drivable and keep dry inside while I am working on it till I am fully ready to tackle the frame-off restore. At least I can get a feel of what I really want to do with the truck.
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1954 GMC 150-24 Truck
The Stovebolt Collective Weighs In
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
I'd just buy the seals and glue them on. Quick way to figure out typical new seal/door fit issues most seem to have. If the seals work, buy that same brand next time. If not, use a different brand next time. Save the rust repair and other adjustments for when you are ready to do paint. In the grand scheme of things, the seal is cheap.

Your goal is similar to what I have done. A driving/restoration/keep it from getting worse until I do final work job.

Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
I'm with Mark. If you find minor rust under the seals, I'd wire brush the area and use something like Rustoleum Red primer to slow it down. You can get that in a pint can and brush it on in the areas that need it so you don't have to worry about overspray. Or use a rattle can and mask the area.

If you don't see rust around the windshield and rear window seals, I wouldn't mess with them currently. I'm not seeing a problem around your windshield in your photo.

That right side rain gutter is starting to look a bit ugly, though.

If you want to drive it, don't start tearing thing apart. I'm 8 years after buying my truck into a full restoration, and still not quite done. But the idea for mine was something to work on during retirement. It has accomplished that goal, for sure. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2023
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'Bolter
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1962 C10 with a 235 6cyl -- all of the drive train seems to be original.
Some of this story is in the Side Lot
Some people like a new truck. I liked the old ones.
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'Bolter
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Posts: 74
Thank you for the answers and ideas. Puts my mind at ease.
Going to get the seals and glue from Classic Parts, will wire brush the glue areas to make sure clean of rust and paint with Rustoleum primer. Great idea to put the seals on while I'm working on truck keeping insides clean and dry. Figure every little bit helps. And be able to see any other "surprises", didn't think of the rain gutter, will look at it as well.


1954 GMC 150-24 Truck
The Stovebolt Collective Weighs In
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery

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