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Joined: Sep 2019
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M
'Bolter
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i have a 1948 chevy truck , with a 235 engine, and i have a small leak in the heater core, and i would like to ideally isolate the heater ( with piping or valve) to I can continue to drive my truck while taking my time in replacing or repairing the core. It is warm now in Montana, with no need for heat for 6 months plus. thanks

Last edited by Phak1; 04/27/2023 6:45 PM. Reason: Edited by Moderator:Corrected spelling directly to subject.

1948 3/4 ton Chevy Pickup
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Remove one end of a heater hose from the heater and one end of the other heater hose from the waterpump. One hose will route from the waterpump back to the waterpump and the other will circle back to the heater.


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
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E
'Bolter
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I have this valve on the hose going into the heater core that I use to open/close/regulate flow to the heater in lieu of the Ranco valve. It was around $20 at O'Reilly, and I use a $10 choke cable to work it from in the cab, but if all you want to do is isolate the heater, you don't need the cable. I don't know if there's risk of the system sucking air in through the leak or not.

https://media.fotki.com/2v2aS82LyxDubp.jpg


Or you can remove the hoses, loop one (or a short length of another hose) to the hose fittings on the water pump and thermostat housing to bypass the heater.

I assume you don't want to remove the hoses altogether and put plugs in place of the fittings on the water pump and thermostat housing since you intend to fix or replace the core to put it back in service.

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B
'Bolter
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I'd remove both hoses at the heater end and connect them together. That way you don't have to cut any hoses.

IF (big if) the hoses are different diameters, you should be able to find a 5/8" to 3/4" diameter adapter at your FLAPS.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Just remove the hoses at the heater core and plug them. There's no need to circulate coolant through them at all- - - -the cooling system will work without any heater core flow.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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5
Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
Just remove the hoses at the heater core and plug them. There's no need to circulate coolant through them at all- - - -the cooling system will work without any heater core flow.
Jerry

Yep. Heater was an option you had to pay extra for. The trucks without a heater came with NPT plugs in the water pump holes.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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O
'Bolter
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My '39 Packard has a factory heater with a brass gate valve on the hot water outlet in the cylinder head. Open it in the winter and close it in the spring to keep anyhot water at all from warming up the cabin.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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W
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Putting a valve in one of the hoses will not solve the leak problem. There still will be coolant in the heater with some pressure.

George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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