I have aftermarket arm rests. I broke one of them; I suppose I pulled too hard on it closing the door. Picture is attached to this post. Replacement has been ordered.
Any ideas on how to make these things moire robust? I was thinking of filling the cavities with some sort of epoxy. Open to other ideas...
Cut off the plastic mounting feet, like the ones that broke off. Take off the fabric retainer and replace with a metal combo piece. So you are pulling on metal. In this method, you should try and add an additional screw. "Screw and glue" the metal piece to modified arm rest. Paint metal piece black or door color. I don't have an AD or an arm rest so can't study the situation fully. My best shot for now. I've seen arm rests with similar method.
Both of mine were broken like that when I got the truck. I used JB Weld Plastic Weld to put them back together. The repaired cracks are now stronger than the original plastic.
I've been pulling on them for a couple years now and they haven't broken. I don't often remember that they've been repaired so I don't exactly go easy on grabbing them and pulling the doors shut.
No way was I going to waste $80 or more buying new ones. Glad I didn't.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
One of mine broke a few years back. I managed to rough up the insides of the plastic shell with coarse sandpaper. Was able to fit or tape the broken pieces back together, then set them level and poured the support full of epoxy. Was probably 10 years ago and it's held perfect since.
On a related note, one of the unexpected benefits of building a boat was having huge amounts of epoxy available for such tasks. Talking a half gallon or more, not the little half ounce tubes you see in the hardware store.
You can also order much larger tubes of JB Weld for such tasks.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
I have aftermarket arm rests. I broke one of them; I suppose I pulled too hard on it closing the door. Picture is attached to this post. Replacement has been ordered.
Any ideas on how to make these things moire robust? I was thinking of filling the cavities with some sort of epoxy. Open to other ideas...
Epoxy is probably the easiest way. That or some sort of reinforcing insert, no other real options there.(once one of my broke I've just poured epoxy or something similar inside(got like a whole can at outdoor & survival section at https://gritroutdoors.com/outdoor-survival/ if I remember correctly), works for like 3 or 4 years now without any issues).
Guys I had the same problem, and I read a post were a 1956 Plymouth door handle fits perfect holes do line up I bought them from ebay and recovered them but not sure the year so measure and ask before you purchase them
How much were the Plymouth arm rests? Why not just buy new Chevy arm rests?
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I made mine out of a 2" x 2" piece of hard ash and painted to match the door panel insets. That was 40 years ago and they're still fine today. They're not padded, but I never found these to be large enough nor comfortable enough to rest my elbow on them for more than a few minutes.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Seeing that this thread was resurrected I have to say that Otto's JB Weld suggestion worked well. The stuff is a bit messy to work with but it was easy to file off the excess material. A few minutes with wet and dry sandpaper smoothed it down ready for reinstall.
I also adjusted the door striker plate so it doesn't need to be slammed so hard.
I was too lazy to clean mine up after the JB Weld dried. I figure nobody can see underneath them, anyway. They're still holding strong.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
1962 C10 with a 235 6cyl -- all of the drive train seems to be original. Some of this story is in the Side Lot Some people like a new truck. I liked the old ones.