Thinking about restoring one of my extra steering wheels which is cracked in the regular places, etc. Will dremel out the cracks and fill them with epoxy. Looking for a durable rattle can paint. Suggestions?
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Colors are limited but Eastwood sells a 2K epoxy spray paint. I can't vouch for the quality. The one can I tried to use was defective and I have seen some reviews that say the spray pattern can be poor but many of the reviews also talk about its durability. It is expensive at about $30 a can if you get it on sale. They charge about $10 for shipping. (420 for paint and $10 shipping). You can usually find a similar rattle can epoxy paint at your local auto paint store. My local paint store wanted about $35 for a can. That said, I will probably be restoring my extra steering wheel with Rust-Oleum Automotive enamel and possibly some clear coat. Cheaper and I have been please with the Rust-Oleum Automotive enamel on past projects.
Rust-Oleum is one of my most favorite products of all time. It always does what it says it will do.
I painted a set of lawn furniture in the early 90s with yellow Rust-Oleum. It sits outside uncovered. It still looks like new but slightly faded. Absolutely no peeling and no rust-through.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Awewsome. I also love Rust-Oleum paints. So does my patio table. So yeah, think I'll get a can of their automotive semi gloss enamel. Thanks for the tip.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Yes, rustoleum for sure. Sometimes the simplest is the best solution. I have used J B Weld in the steering wheel cracks to great success. Even without beveling the crack edges, they pretty muck disapear!
~Charley 1954 Chevy 3100 with 235 “Bud” Follow along in the DITY 1963 Chevy half ton stepside short box 230 1954 GMC 3 ton 302 And several more Chevy camper and work trucks 1979 1987 1996
If you are looking for a black paint a lot of imfo I read is to use an appliance paint . Rust-Oleum makes it in a rattle can ,supposed to be tough paint
I'm all in on the Rust-Oleum as well. I did the steering wheel restoration after watching a fellow on Youtube grind out the cracked area's to a v or u shape and fill with PC7 and then do the sanding/shaping / painting. I followed with Rust-oleum primer and then Black Satin Enamel. I'm sure the appliance epoxy that Kevinski recommends would be plenty tough to handle the use.
Last edited by Dusty53; 04/19/202312:10 PM.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Back in high school in the 70's a friend of mine had a Road Runner. He grandpa and dad owned a gas station and shop. They built the car for him. When it came time to paint the car his grandpa used white appliance paint. I always remembered that. In the 70's I am guessing that was a good alternative for a hard finish if you did not have a regular paint shop. It does say it is an Epoxy finish on the can.
I used black appliance paint from Rustoleum and it came out really good. The only drawback was it took weeks to fully cure before I was able to mount it back on the truck.
Last edited by Phak1; 04/19/202312:20 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Having 3 steering wheels, I will be in zero hurry to get the newly painted one back in the truck. With the local temps coming up, might be a perfect time to get this going. Thanks all for the ideas.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
I've found it takes several months for Rustoleum to FULLY cure, which to me means it passes the can't dent with a fingernail test. That's in the AZ desert, so add more time in humid areas. For a steering wheel I'd recommend setting it aside for 2-3 months.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
I also used Rustoleum. I purchased a quart of black & white & mixed them until I got the grey I wanted. I shot them through an old binks paint gun. Now the paint didn't flow out like automotive paint but at $10 a quart I'm not gonna complain.
I got a recommendation from somewhere to use the 3m product in the picture & it worked really nice. I didn't have the correct dispensing gun so you see how i got er dun in the picture.
I used a filler primer in a spray can to get out the small scratches before 3 coats of rustoleum.
Its not a 10 out of 10 but for a driver it is to me. Especially if you see the before. The truck sits outside & still looks good 2 years later. When it fades out .... I'll give it another coat. The paint dries quick in the summer & I let it dry for a week before using. I'm not a pro but I play one on weekends
Last edited by festerhairball; 04/19/202311:23 PM.
1959 3100, original 235/3 on the tree w/overdrive. Carter YF 2100S carb, 205/75/15 w/front sway bar