The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Transmission Crossmember with Brake Booster

I installed a Dual Master with Booster on the frame (CPP Kit) and the transmission cross member had to be removed

There an aftermarket crossmember available:


My question is does this fit for this particular application, with the OEM transmission mount on the 3 speed?

I guess the main difference is it bolts to bottom of frame rail rather than into the sides.

Anyone done this? Pics?

OP has a torque tube transmission/rearend which calls for that crossmember and torque ball support mount.
I don't know how necessary that tiny rubber pad actually is. I drove a '52 for years, that unbeknownst to me, had no rubber left whatsoever on the mount and I drove it 4,000 miles at 60 miles an hour and never had any issues.
In '54, they changed to a beefier bellhousing/crossmember and eliminated the torque ball support mount and the bolt on crossmember.
If this were my truck, I would not install a crossmember and mount and drive it to see if there are any driveability issues.

Buoymaker,

That double female coupler could well have witness holes to verify enough thread engagement to be safe!

Ed

I cut a notch out of my crossmember to allow the master cylinder/booster the clearance it needed. I then welded in plates to "box" it in and strengthen the crossmember as best as possible. Many miles and many years with no issue. I can get you a pic if you would like.

Wouldn't it have been simpler to move the MC and booster back about a foot on the frame and make a longer pushrod for the pedal linkage?
Jerry

A picture would be great! Thanks!

Here you go. Mine mounted in the stock location so this was a pretty easy fix.

When one cuts a crossmember, etc., it is best to have rounded corners on the inside of such cuts to not be a ready start of cracks. A .5” or larger hole with the straight cuts tangent to the hole will suffice. If heavily loaded, a doubler plate on the sides of the cut subject will suffice.

Ed

Thanks!👍

Excellent info Ed. Thanks. I will file that in my memory banks for any future projects of a similar nature. I will also take that crossmember out and fix it up right as per your advice. Cheers

Thank you for all your replies. Sorry for my delayed response!

It's hard to believe that no-one other than @Twin Jimmys has actually encountered this & done something about it - there are dozens of outfits offering this booster/dual-master kit and just say 'may need the crossmember' but it's clearly not the whole story
Thanks for your pics there, that was a clever solution.


Indeed, when I was installing the Brake Booster, I saw exact same, that my transmission rubber mount was like that too, no physical connection between the mount, with the rubber gone. So had been driving it like that.
So I just removed the original cross-member for the brake installation as it hadn't been doing anything anyway.

But thinking I should really do something to at least restore its original mount status.

I went ahead and purchased the cross-member - didn't yet purchase new transmission mount until I got the member to compare dimensions; (the cross-member was only $67 with free shipping with ~ $100 more for the mounting bracket/pad)

So - I compared the two and the new one effectively will put the center flange (where the transmission mount bolts) approx 2" lower.
Ergo a 2" spacer there at the mount would be required ....
- or I can try to mount a 1" spacer at each flange (if there's room for it to go higher) and a 1" spacer in the middle

Hey all,

My first of 4 replies to show proof that I'm not a 🤖 (bot), so can someone reply so I can move up in the world of stove bolt?

As Hot Rod Lincoln mentioned above, the more common solution is to move the master cylinder back, extend the rod, and leave the crossmember alone.

On Edit: Your solution with the universal crossmember should work just fine. I would be inclined to put the 1" spacers on the sides like you mentioned to avoid reducing your ground clearance.

If you moved it back a foot, I'm assuming you would still have to at least drill though the cross member for the push rod? Would this eliminate the booster reportedly not working with a 3 on the tree transmission?

As of last night, realized I have the same problem.

I’m installing the same CCP unit and I just crawled under my truck to investigate the possibility of moving the booster back behind the crossmember. The emergency brake rod seems to be in the way. Any bolt’r actually install their booster that way?

I installed one of these CPP booster setups on my 49 3600 and share your frustration. I ordered over the phone and nobody asked me what transmission I was running (or more to the point, if I was running the original linkage/original crossmember); and I was sure lit up when I realized that none (that I could see) available were intended to be used with the original linkage and crossmember.

I did as others indicated above, just moved the whole assembly back and made up a longer pushrod from tool steel (love the lathe man). That was in 2020 I believe, and it's been working fine since I did not cut the crossmember and I'm running the oem brake and clutch linkage (with a T-5 but that's beside the point).

Thought for sure I had pictures of the linkage after the install, unfortunately apparently not. Next time I'm under there I'll try and remember to grab one.

And at the end of the day - this is such an easy (but time consuming!!) fix, WHY does nobody simply make a kit to work with the OEM crossmember?

Edit: as an aside, I have cleaned up that brake line routing since - that was the initial plumbing

Judging by your picture, it looks like it clears the emergency brake rod, just barely. Did you cut an access in the floor for the master?

Yes mine does clear that brake rod. I use the parking brake regularly too it has not posed any issues.

Yes I did indeed cut an access hole. Ford of this era provided that courtesy, I’m always scratching my head why GM declined.

What you use to close the hole?

Here's a couple of pix. Made my own bracket. Used Mustang booster and Camaro m/c. Replaced e-brake with brake from 1972 truck; improved reliability.

Just made a sheetmetal cover. I no doubt have a gasket in there too. Believe I bead rolled it just for fun and practice