Was taking apart my carb to give it a thorough cleaning when I broke one of the spring guides for the fuel idle part(idk what its actually called). Is there any way to repair this or is it a new carb or float bowl situation?
Crap. That's a question for carbking. My gut says you're screwed. There isn't any adhesive I know that can work submerged in fuel. How could you weld or solder pot metal in that location?
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
If you never put any gasoline in it, it will be a good paperweight. Once it's gassed up, it becomes a stinky paperweight. Are you working with a 216 or a 235? I've got Rochesters of both sizes in much better condition than the one in the picture. I only plan on using Carter carbs in the forseeable future. Let's talk. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
You might be better off buying a used carb and rebuild the two into a good one. Link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The YF was designed specifically by Carter for the Chevy inline six. It was designed to be a bolt on replacement that offered superior performance and reliability. It was so successful, dealers would replace troublesome Rochesters with the Carter YF, even on new cars.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Was taking apart my carb to give it a thorough cleaning when I broke one of the spring guides for the fuel idle part(idk what its actually called). Is there any way to repair this or is it a new carb or float bowl situation?
That part is repairable, but the carburetor itself doesn't look like it would be worthwhile to repair.
And even if the carburetor were repairable, the repair of the broken area would exceed the value of several Rochester type B's.
One should look at the rarity, and value, of the item as well as looking at the repair.
If this had been the dual-quad hemi AFB with a broken not-so-easy-out stuck in a primary jet that was sent to me when I was still repairing carbs, it was definately worth repairing. The same carb had the other primary jet seat drilled out, so no threads were left (some folks can turn a $500. restoration into a $1500. restoration by trying to do it themselves).
Same is true with one of the two identical carburetors from an early Isotta Fraschini that the owner had sent to one of the "48-hour" turnaround "rebuilders" because he didn't like my backlog. He ended up waited about three times longer as we had to have a new casting made, and then we machined the new casting.
If the item as not replaceable and one want it, it just must be repaired; others, easier and cheaper to replace.
As others have mentioned, the correct Carter would be a good choice unless your truck is a show truck. If so, Jerry suggested that he had some Rochesters; talk to him.
Jon
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! The Carburetor Shop
The YF was designed specifically by Carter for the Chevy inline six. It was designed to be a bolt on replacement that offered superior performance and reliability. It was so successful, dealers would replace troublesome Rochesters with the Carter YF, even on new cars.
Dad used to tell a story about that Carter replacement carb. Since he was a Carter dealer, and I've never known him to lie about anything, I believe it. When GM stopped equipping all their Chevy engines with Carter carbs and started using Rochesters as original equipment, The CEO of Carter vowed to sell a million replacement carbs. It took a few years, but when the one millionth Chevy carb came off the assembly line, Carter had it gold plated and presented it to the CEO of GM! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
That's the accelerator pump plunger, which should be included in any rebuilding kit. What concerns me about the carb photo you posted is the massive amount of corrosion. Even if it gets cleaned up, the loss of metal on what should be a precision part is very troubling. It's better to start out with something a little closer to original condition, especially when a brand new original equipment piece was marginal at best. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
CBall, I have a 1958 235 engine in my 50' 3100, I use a Carter YF966S carburetor. After removing the unreliable Rochester and leaking gas often, I got the Carter. Runs like a dream. Just my 2 cents. Wish I had done that in the very beginning. I rebuild the Rochester twice. Good luck & keep us updated. Todd
Update: Hotrod Lincoln (Jerry) was kind enough to reach out and gave me a spare Rochester B carb that he had. We met up last night (We are about 40min apart) and graciously gave it to me as well as a rundown on how the entire carb works and the nuances of the Rochester B's as well as some of the history behind them! He is a valuable resource and wealth of knowledge. I am very glad that 1)this forum has had so many helpful people 2)Jerry has been so helpful and will continue to be a valuable resource for me(and others). I have taken the carb Jerry gave me apart and soaked it overnight in B-12 Chemtool to lift off a lot of surface debris, wiped it down and it is now in the ultrasonic cleaner. My hope is to rebuild Jerry's carb and then try and get mine rebuilt as a spare. Will keep up with the updates as I have them....Should really start a build thread at this point...
Jon (Carb King) makes me look like a rank amateur where carburetors are concerned. Despite his (and my) distaste concerning Rochester carbs, he makes the best rebuilding kits out there for these carbs, and he has an impressive stock of original equipment parts, not the "one size fits none" generic kits the local parts stores stock. Since the carb I gave you is missing the ID tag, there will be some guesswork concerning the exact application, but it came off an engine for a 1953 truck 216. Maybe next time we meet we can find a place that actually serves coffee! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Not all but some Rochester ‘B’ carbs have the model number stamped into the bottom flange of the carb. I’ve posted a picture of mine which has it.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Took Jerry's carb to the ultrasonic cleaner and cleaned it up really nice! New rebuild kit and got it back installed! Now to finish getting my cooling system back together and a new brake cylinder installed and I can finally drive it!
If you discover you have warped castings, you can look up at the top of this section and see the instructions I wrote years ago about straightening them using your gas grill as a heat source.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I see some parts still assembled in that cleaning vat- - - -specifically, an accelerator pump. Not a good idea! Regardless of the cleaning method used, the final procedure is AIR- - - - -lots of it! Every passageway in all the castings needs to be purged with a needle-point blow gun, and massive quantities of compressed air. The cleaning solvent just softens deposits- - - - -air gets the castings clean. A carburetion instructor I had at the General Motors training center in Memphis put it this way- - - -"Put 55 gallons of air through every hole!" Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Jerry, The accelerator pump you see is my old carb. Even after ultrasonic I can't get it out. I have tried almost everything to get the old one out but I rebuilt yours after cleaning it with all new small bits
OK- - - -get it nice and clean so it won't stink, and use it as a paperweight! LOL! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Well after continuing to fight with carb issues I have broke down and ordered a used Carter 964 off of ebay along with a rebuild kit. Issue after issue including bowl flooding, warped casting, blocked ports, difficulty adjustments along with hot start problems $150 for a Carter and a $25 rebuild kit I will hopefully put those issues in the past and be able to drive it further than 2 miles without issues.
Before installing the $25. repair kit, measure the orifice of the fuel valve seat. If it is greater than 0.081 inch, be prepared for carburetor flooding.
Jon
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! The Carburetor Shop
A twenty five dollar rebuild kit sounds generic and low quality. That should set alarms off. I think my rebuild kit was about $100 for a YF966. Not sure I would even roll the dice on that kit. Do what Carbking says checking it first. Then get a "Quality " kit. Rebuild it Once.
Well after threatening my rochester carbs about their soon to be replacement coming in, it is now operating pretty good. No leaking around the bowl and it has not been hiccupping at all. So at least now I have a little bit of time to get the rebuild kit situation figured out.
