The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre 1949 3100 - new to Chevy (USA)

Hello all
New here so bear with me. Long time auto enthusiast , shade tree builder kinda guy. However just picked up a 1949 3100 as a project for my son’s and I .

The ol thing is in pretty good shape considering it’s like 70 yrs old! Nothing rusted thru on chassis at all. Driver side cab corner is the only body panel that is ate out!

Looks like someone just quit driving it and parked it, outside of course.

Not sure exactly which direction to go with this as it’s so factory original - at least from what I can see and in my limited experience with the 49 3100. Was very much considering an S10 chassis swap and LT1 or LS and making a nice driver / street rod out of her.

I’ve got some experience in “restoration” of '57 - 59 ford retracts and the small Tbirds … Worked for a guy doing the restorations off and on for 20+ years. So I guess I have a lil knowledge of older vehicles at least.

Anyhoo here’s a couple pics. Would love to hear opinions on which way a fella and his 3 sons should go on the trick !

Get it running , driving and stopping as is and then decide how much further you want to go. Unless the engine is seized up, it will probably be fairly easy to get running.

Ron,

As this is your very 1st post, Welcome to the Stovebolt community!

A family project with your son will be some awesome fun and will be sure to build some lasting memories and experiences.

You should take a look at all the various forums in The Shop Area and consider posting your questions and topic discussions in the forum best suited to the specific topic. Just a helpful note to keep the conversations focused for the best responses and sharing of experience.

Once again, Welcome to the 'Bolt!

Dan

I personally hate seeing a decent truck body destroyed by chopping the top or modernizing the dash/interior, but a newer chassis and engine, basically non-visible upgrades, could be fun.

Welcome to the Stovebolt forums.

Looks like you’ve got a project on your hands. I’m seeing a need for quite a bit of body work, but with 3 sons to share the work, it may not seem like too much. A family project is a good thing.

See you around the Paint and Body Shop forum.

Ya
It’s gonna need a good amount of body work which is not one of my skills that’s for sure ! She has done good dents and only rusted thru one cab corner . It’s surprising to me there is not more deterioration from rust !!!

Thanks
Ron

I don't understand the whole point of chassis swaps. Nothing will ever fit your truck better than it's facory chassis. There are many ways that you can improve your factory chassis if you want to go that way. Your truck will be more valuable with the original chassis. Is there something special about the S-10 chassis that I'm missing? I have never seen a S-10 swap that didn't have some issues. I have owned a couple of S-10's and they were not what I would concider a great platform. This is just my opinion and you should do whatever you want with your truck. Welcome to the forum and remember it's not just the destination it's the journey. Thank you for your time.

Kevin is the Moderator for the Paint & Body forum. And a very knowledgeable guy in many aspects of retoration. Be sure to post your questions about body, rust, etc. over there.

I think the gang will enjoy to see how this all plays out.

And of course, we can never get tooooooo many pictures.

I agree with Otto,
Get it running, driving and Stopping. Then go from there.
It will only be Original once.
T

I agree with Mick. I just hear so many wanting a better ride and handling with modern frames. I don’t have those skills so I’m keeping my ‘57 3200 as original as possible. Added steering stabilizer shock with plans of front and rear stabilizer bars. P.O. swapped to front discs so I’m good with that.

You said S A F E T Y ....,


This week's magic word.


Shop Safety





We'll send you a Stovebolt ... ah .... flyer.

Welcome to the 'bolt. You will get advice for several ways to make the truck road worthy. If there is not much work to do to make it roadworthy, maybe get it running and drive it a bit. Then move forward.

Rusty,

That reminded me of moving to a new house. Get in there first before you start really making any changes. LIVE in it awhile. It's amazing what seems important ... and what really is important.

And ah ... the usual BUDGET considerations. And ... time! And ... available parts .... skill level ... and ....


So ... drive it ... even if it's just a little bit!

RonBurgandy, you'll do great. The kids will get a big kick. We have some great father-son stories in here. That *time* is priceless.

Gives you a chance to be a kid a bit again. Search here for "Father Son" and you'll see.

If you've never started an engine after a long slumber before, don't just turn the key and hope it starts.

There's a lengthy procedure required to avoid causing damage. Most of it is common sense.


Edit 3/23 - RonBurgandy posted his engine questions in the Engine Shop. He got a slew of feedback there! Plus it will be helpful to others looking in *engines* with similar questions. ~ Peggy M

As far as P/S they make nice electric kits that use OEM column and box. As far as springs they don't know if they are straight or coiled. The magic is in the shocks. There are countless ways to alter the stock frame to whatever level you want. My 53 3100 will have leaf springs with sway bars. Rear end with panhard bar and Bicknel torque arm on Frankland quick change with Gleason torson diff. 4' drop custom Superbell front axel made to fly. 1000+HP inline 6 292. Wilwood 12.88" 6/4 disk. I would put my chassis up against any modern chassis for strength and handling. From what I understand a S-10 chassis swap is not as easy as it sounds. JMHO.

“Nothing rusted through on chassis at all.”
That statement got my immediate attention.

If it ain’t broke…..

Welcome to "full privileges" --- A 'Bolter. Now that you have your fifth post in -- prepare to give and get Private Messages (PMs).

In the mean time, you have a few folks waiting to answer some of those engine questions. We're like attack dogs here.

Ron,

Next thing to do is to move these various topics into their own conversation threads in the nearest "on-topic" Shop forum.

Time to move to those forums for more Q&A sessions!

See you over there.

Dan

If you have never driven an S-10, make it a point to do so. In my experience with them, they do not handle any better than a fully restored 3100 chassis, and they ride is not much better either. They are pretty much a light duty economy grade car chassis with a truck body on it.
I do not consider this type of swap an upgrade. There are better ways to get what you want by modernizing a stock chassis.

I had added a few thoughts to your thread in the Welcome Centre. Didn't realize you had one over here also.

Thank you everyone
Your opinions are much appreciated.
I’ve never owned a Chevy older than probably 1981
I do understand that an S10 is NOT a Cadillac nor does it drive and or handle like one .
I reckon it was just my thinking that the S10 swap was maybe easier to have updated suspension and disc brakes .
As I mentioned I have 3 sons
Oldest is 12
They have all taken a large interest in the ol truck.
So In my tiny brain I imagined it being driven…
A lot
We like the sound of v8 and good exhaust and the look of a nice 50 ish Chevy truck lowered cruising down the road .
Having said that
I do 100% understand the originality of such a vehicle
And to be honest I did not think the truck was as complete and rust free prior to picking it up .
I had only seen pictures of it so I just assumed it was like most other 70 yr old vehicles and would be inundated with rust .
However that is not the case
It doesn’t even have rodent damage on the wiring.
Which I have on my daily drivers rite here at the house!
So now I’m scratching my head on what to do with her ???
Keep the opinions and comments coming I don’t have any feelings you ain’t gonna hurt em !
Thanks again all
Ron

Just some more pics, I’ll try to get some more pics of the chassis today .
The pic of the grey truck is NOT mine just a pic I found on the internets and was leaning to that look/ style of build . It’s clean , somewhat simple In design or paint scheme if you will and it just looks good .
I will admit my “vision” of finished project is hazy now after everyone’s input but that’s why I joined on here to get some insight and opinions
Thanks again
Ron

RonBurgundy My choice would be what Otto said,get your tires on the ground ,get running,get brakes ,go from there. Your so very lucky to have good metal ! My son and I done a 51 in about 93,was rusty so we just primed it white,he just drove the wheels off of that little truck

Don't succumb to the notion that you can't drive a 70 year old truck a lot without major modifications or "upgrades". I've put over 2000 miles on mine since last August. It is/was in similar condition to yours. It was parked for years and never started or driven.

I tuned up the engine, replaced/rebuilt the fuel system, and made sure the brakes were up to snuff. All the parts are readily available, relatively cheap, and most can be purchased at the local parts store or Rock Auto.

Drum brakes are perfectly fine when adjusted and working properly. New tires, wheels and shocks made a vast improvement in performance. I drive it 55-60 on the freeway without fear or handling problems.

As for your bed, don't sweat it. I painted a piece of plywood and dropped it in on top of the rotten one so I could carry stuff. Eventually all that will be done right but I want to drive the truck, not work on it.

Okay. I moved the engine discussion posts to here in the Engine Shop.

Good place for RonBurgandy get the help he needs.

Otto, that’s a good looking truck you have and the fact you use it as a truck is really cool!
We are tinkering with the 49 rite now
A lot of it is “attempting” to learn 3 young boys the basics .
Attention spans are short …
Sometimes… lol
But we are spending time together working on her.
I did get plugs out.
The ol dry Rotted belt broke when I tried to manually turn engine.
The plugs came out with minimal effort.
First 3 still show signs of carbon back 3 have signs of oxidation at least .I sprayed a little PB in there I’ll let it sit a bit
I don’t know if it’s “locked up” or just surface rust on cylinders .
I of course don’t want to get too aggressive trying to turn it over .
I will continue to update
Thank you for your response
Ron

Ron,

As this conversation has become more about getting your engine freed up and possible started, please post further in your own post that was relocated to the Engine Shop forum.

Understand you are new to the site, but suggest you please post further questions/comments in the specific "Shop Forums" that directly relate to your topic. We try to streamline conversations so they can be focused on one subject to provide you with the most on-topic answers and suggestions.

Respectfully,

Dan (GTT Moderator)

I bought my 53 3100 in 1980 in SoCal in 1980 when I got out of the Navy. It was my work truck (carpenter) and only vehicle for 9 years. I put a modern rear end in it with 3:73's. Otherwise completely stock. Besides 2 to 3 hours a day loaded with tools and materal I drove it from SoCal to northern Indiana and back 5 1/2 times pulling 2 desert bikes. These are some of my best memories. My point is I agree get it on the raod and drive it. These trucks are not as bad as some people say to drive. You may just fall in love with it stock.

Ron,

I have moved all the later posts and replies about your "engine" freeing process and progress to your thread in the "Engine Shop" HERE.

Please post further related replies in that forum/thread.

This thread can remain as long as conversation sticks to "General Truck Talk" topics not fitting other "Tech" forums.

Respectfully,

Dan (Mod)