The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Purchasing hardware - some stainless steel ??

Hey guys,
Since I'm doing a total restoration on my 53 Chevy 3100, I would like to know where I can purchase my hardware? Most of it will be converted to stainless steel. Is there any place you guys like to shop other than the usual aftermarket vendors?

Hi Doug,
Since you live in the low deserts of AZ, why do you want to convert your hardware to stainless steel? Stainless bolts can be problematic, as they tend to gall when nuts are tightened on bolts, making them difficult to remove. I have torn 2 trucks down to bare frames, and found little difficulty with the standard factory bolts. One truck was from CA and the other SD, both well used trucks not protected from the elements.

The various vendors, like Jim Carter and Filling Station, provide kits with interior screws and bolts (some of which are, indeed, stainless). For fenders and other body bolts, grade #2 bolts from the hardware store are great replacements. A few places like cab mounting bolts you might want grade #5 or #8 but those can also be purchased at a hardware store.
Kent

I just finished up a restomod '52 3100. I usually use steel nuts and bolts for my builds, many of them original. This requires a lot of time on the wire wheel on a bench grinder (also known as a small parts dispenser), them wipe down with acetone, prime and paint.
Since I built this one for a paying customer, charging by the hour, I used stainless steel nuts, bolts, and washers whenever possible.
Stainless steel fasteners cost more than steel fasteners, but the labor that I would have charged to prep and paint the steel fasteners would have exceeded the difference in purchase price of the stainless steel fasteners.

The stainless steel fender bolt kit from suppliers like classic parts/ Chevy are quite inexpensive when you look at what is included in the kit
24 clutch head bolts, nuts, fender washers, etc, $30 + shipping…
And SS clutch heads look great on the fenders inside the bed, and on the exterior for the bed front panel bolts…..

"Since you live in the low deserts of AZ, why do you want to convert your hardware to stainless steel? Stainless bolts can be problematic, as they tend to gall when nuts are tightened on bolts, making them difficult to remove. I have torn 2 trucks down to bare frames, and found little difficulty with the standard factory bolts. One truck was from CA and the other SD, both well used trucks not protected from the elements."


Grade 5 hardware/original hardware is just fine. I reuse all I can. The only thing you can't reuse is lock washers if they have taken a set to flat.

SS (or as industry and military calls them, CRES) , is great for phillips head (or as industry and the military calls them, cross recessed) trim screws in cab.

It would be nice to buy Gr 5 black oxide hardware for an old truck. I don't like painting, it always seems to chip off. I guard original blackened hardware with my life. I try not to chase the threads, just wire wheel as Carl says.

I think broken sentences (with parenthetic info in between the structure) are hard to read. I don't do that either.

I guess I was just thinking of aesthetics, so hence the stainless look. Maybe not the best for removing your parts again. I figured some of these aftermarket companies wanted a pretty penny, so I was curious. Maybe they're not that bad in the grand scheme of things.
Another question comes to mind. Is there any need to change the rivets in the frame to bolts?

I bought this set for my 53 3100. I'm doing a frame off so it makes sense for me. It has every little piece on the truck from bumper to bumper. You can get different head styles.

Nothing holds as tight as a rivet, they never back off and get loose. If I needed to remove a bracket or crossmember I'd use rivets to re-install it. When I use rivets I heat them to cherry red and then hit them with my air chisel with a rivet tip to squash them to look factory. As the rivet cools it shrinks and makes a very tight attachment and fills any irregularities in the holes. Rivets and the tools can be bought from Big Flats Rivet Co.

Mike B

My local ACE Hardware (most of them do) had all the Stainless replacement hardware i needed as i got to that section of the project. I.E. , fenders,doors,hood,under hood,etc,,,,,,,,, you end up learning about different thread pitches,screwhead types, types of washers, grades of stainless, etc,,,,,,if you didnt already know. Just make a list of the screws,nuts,bolts youll need for that section of the project,, it makes it more fun or the first timer, and helps with the budget, as Stainless gets pretty expensive.Theres lots of hardware that doesnt need to be stainless. Plus, you can polish the bolt heads on the buffer of the exposed bolts.
Good luck on your project

Challenger Pilot Your frame is made of a-36 frame steel, made to flex riveted to be tuff. Unless it is loosened -up,or damaged (usually from chain hook-ups) I would leave it alone and if repair is needed would rivet like mike says. My 51 3600 has flexed hundreds of times from massive loads is still just fine. GM rivet jobs were done to be tuff and durable,if you repair get a-36 frame steel,also welds good with 7018 low hydrogen welding rod.

That's what I figured, the rivets are strong. I've seen a lot of people on YouTube change them out. Seems like unnecessary time and money.

I did my whole truck with stainless steel fasteners and just made a list as i worked thru to change them out. It is much cheaper getting them from a local bolt and screw business than going to the Truck Guys.



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