The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Looking at buying my first project -- 1958 Apache

Hello all:

First of, thank you for the add!

Im looking at buying my first project and have stumbled across a 1958 apache truck going for auction in an estate sale. It is originally a CA truck and has been garage kept recently. Could anyone offer some pricing thoughts or thoughts on condition/potential for a decent starter project. I really like the old classic trucks, but Im open to thoughts and opinions on what are good ones to restore. I will provide what I can and waiting on the auctioneer to setup a time to go see it.

Thanks in advance!

1958 Pics

Vin number is V3A58L******

The answer to the Auction is STOP when reaching your limit.

Those vehicles are getting hard to find here in the South. Good luck on your auction !

Not knowing all the particulars this is whar I got.https://www.jdpower.com/cars/1958/chevrolet/3100/pickup-1-2-ton-stepside-shortbed

Welcome to the site. Hope you can get some good guidance in here.

You might want to check out the series of Tech Tips we have about buying an old truck and one about getting started on a restoration.

Thank you all for the help so far!
Look forward to learning from everyone.
Do you have any thought on a number to stop at? As far as price?

From the pictures it looks nice. The 58/59 fleetside are fairly hard to come by, so they can command a premium compared to the 2 headlight versions.

Any idea if it runs or drives?

At the end of the day, it is "worth" what someone is willing to pay for it. Being an auction, pick your max ahead of time and don't get suckered into a bidding frenzy.

Make sure you check the fees and premiums beforehand and take those into account for your pricing. The local auction house here recently upped the premium from 10% to 15% (plus 3% if not paying cash) plus a $200 flat fee for the honor of getting to buy a vehicle from them.

Not sure if its running or drives. Do you have any idea on a number to stop at? 10% premium is on it.
What do you mean compared to the 2 headlight versions?

Did you say: "What my Truck Worth."

Glory be, look:

What's my truck worth?

Dual headlights started in 1958.

Yes,
Ive read the "Whats my truck worth". I cant seem to find adequate comparisions as most are partially or completely restored and going for well over 20K. I was just curious if anyone could ballpark a value for its condition.
Are the dual headlights more sought after or are the earlier years?

Pre 58 trucks all had 2 headlights.
1958/1959 had 4 headlights.
1960 also had 4 headlights, but was the more modern body style.

Finding 58/59 parts is harder than getting 55-57 parts because they have traditionally been less popular. They are making a resurgence now though, so the prices are up but the parts availability has not really caught up to that.

Based soley on the pictures, the body looks reasonably ok. It is complete, but has some damage. Fixing the arrow on the bed is a real pain in the euphamism. You can't really tell from here what rust it might or might not have. The dash does not look mangled, which is a plus.

The mismatched and non-original valve covers and coil mount would indicate that the engine has been messed with. Do you care about having an original engine? If so, then you want to check out the stamping on the block.

If it were me, I would probably put a top price around 4k if it didn't run and 8k if it did. That said, I really, really like the 58/59 body style but am considered a notorius cheapskate by my friends.

I bought a running, driving 58 about 18 months ago for $3500. It needs more bodywork than that one appears to, but it gives you an idea of what is available.

To be honest your initial question cannot be answered. We can’t see the actual condition of the truck. The closest anyone can come is exactly what We b Old said in his first response. Stop when you reach your limit and hope the rust worms have left you enough to work with. Good luck.

The 58-59 trucks were once considered the ugly ducklings of the Task Force series. In recent years they have gained in popularity, especially the short box fleetsides. With all of the current builders sourcing these trucks the prices are at a premium.

Will you have a chance to preview the truck prior to bidding? Pictures are great but they don't show everything going on. I would set your max bid where you are comfortable, you have fees and possibly shipping to consider as well.

Not many would be able to give you a set price without first really seeing the truck.

Thank you very much for the input! The current bid for it is 5500.00 plus the 10%, but it has a few days left.
I will keep an eye out for others as well as maybe trying to find a surburban or something with some more seats if my wife demands we keep the kids. haha

A suburban from that vintage will be $$$$$$$$$$$. They are like solid gold these days.

Edit: You are in Arkansas. The kids can ride in the back. They stack better if you don't bother with seats.

There's a few things going for that truck, it's a Fleetside, it is a factory V8, it has the big back window and the dash hasn't been molested.

Places to look for rust are above the windshield, lower hinge pockets, the air plenums (behind the fender at the cowl), the rear cab corners, the running boards and across the mating seam on the firewall.

Except for the seat frame everything needed inside the cab can be bought new. The front clip is also being reproduced (Hood, Inner fenders, fenders grille etc).

If that's the original motor it would be a 283.

A few months ago there was a auction in Nebraska where one owner was selling over 900 vehicles. The trucks from the 50's all sold for over $5k...they were complete but had been sitting in a field for 20 years, so it's no surprise it's at $5k already. I'll throw a dart and say it' will sell for something north of $8k...

Mike B

Mike's post is pretty much my opinion. I will add to the pros: Short bed way more valuable than long. Fleetside way more valuable than step. Big window very rare especially paired with the other rare'ish features, Seems complete and original mostly. Has deluxe chrome package and looks like correct V8 fan shroud. Chrome knobs, original radio, deluxe heater. Front breather/oil fill may indicate correct era motor. I can't keep up with prices although I've owned many TF's. If if if if if floors are solid....and a person thinks prices on these will continue to rise, being a two year only body style, and If If If if it has a title, then $7500 would not be too much. Be advised, it's all about rust. If you can inspect for that, it's more comfortable. I hate auctions. This truck has all the valuable features you could hope for. If you have the money, plan to keep for years, this is the one to buy....barring major rust. NO TITLE, NO DEAL!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you for the constant information and opinions. Very much appreciated!
One thing is, it does not have a title. I was going to look into what the process is here in Arkansas. Bonded title? The owner passed away Im told and he was an eccentric man who would aquire vehicles and never do anything with them. This one has been sitting for 20 years in his shop. Last registration tag from 2002 in CA
I went out to see the truck yesterday and it seemed really clean. I have updated the post above with more pics.

Most states have provisions for antique cars without titles.

Normally a bill of sale is all that's required. They'll check the id number on the vehicle with their database to make sure it isn't stolen and then issue a new title.

Just go to the registration office with all the data you have and they'll tell you what to do. I'm sure your state's website will have the information on it.

Since it's 25 degrees outside and I don't feel like going out to the garage right now, I looked up Arkansas' rules. Here is the one that most closely applies to your situation.

Requirements:

1) Affidavit for license for an Antique Vehicle completed by the applicant. 2) If the vehicle is already titled and registered to the applicant, the registration certificate or other acceptable proof of ownership which includes the year, make, model, and vehicle identification number; OR 3) If the vehicle is not titled and registered to the applicant, the following: a) The previous title, if available, or if not, bills of sale reflecting the year, make, model, and vehicle identification number; OR b) If the vehicle is assembled from a variety of sources, the owner may present bills of sale for the principal parts. The bills of sale should indicate the source and include the motor or body serial number. If only one bill of sale is presented, the customer will be informed that he or she must use the Bonded Title Procedures for issuance of title.



www.dfa.arkansas.gov/motor-vehicle

Here's the application for a Bonded Title. Looks pretty straightforward.

www.dfa.arkansas.gov/images/uploads/motorVehicleOffice/IssanceOfBondedTitle.pdf

Your "New" pics are just duplicates. This Truck is now a "no buy" in my opinion.

Bartamos ,

I added several new photos of inside the cab and roof areas, so they are not all duplicates. I also understand your feelings on the truck and I appreciate your feedback.

Big back window, factory V8 truck, and a short Fleetside drives up the value. Make sure you can get a title in your state before bidding.

Good luck.

John

What are you seeing specifically that would make it a no buy?

It's way beyond the condition of something I'd be interested in, but that's because I don't do body work or welding and am not interested in projects. Is the amount of work required to get the truck serviceable way beyond its prospective value or are there some things you noticed that just can't be fixed - like a rotted through frame?

I think I've gone over that. I don't want to get into a back and forth about getting a title. Your document is a great example of how risky it is.. your document is an application to be allowed to make application for a bonded title. Nothing straight forward when you spend big money and a 10% premium and then risk the condition, the motor, the drive train, the brakes and then the risk of ownership. I was OK with all that, with caution about rust, until I saw no title. I said it has all the features you could want for value and resale and gave a price. All bets are off with no title. You can be denied application, you can have an owner show up and confiscate it or it appears on a stolen list after you buy it and the cops confiscate it. Bonded title is complicated, you have buy an insurance policy $$$, wait three years and hope nothing happens. The smart thing is to go down to the DMV and tell them what you are thinking of doing and get the straight info.
Everything could turn out OK. Who knows?

Someone may buy it from a state that does not require titles on old vehicles.
VIN is correct for the truck. Frame check is a good idea.

Got it.

I guess I'm spoiled living in Georgia. Until recently you didn't need a title at all for cars 15 years old or more. All you needed was a bill of sale. The state would run the car's id and if it came up clean they'd issue a new title immediately.

It's still almost that easy but the age of the vehicle is now fixed to those built prior to 1986 or so something. On newer vehicles without titles, the car has to be inspected by a cop to verify VIN. If VIN comes up clean , they'll issue a new Georgia title.

I've registered nearly all my vehicles with Bills of Sale only in order to keep original and older titles in my own possession.

Wish my state had that, but of course it would raise the prices of older vehicles without titles. Every vehicle with no title has a BS story about why. Doesn't matter what the reason.

All of the auctions that I have looked at guaranteed the necessary paperwork to get a title. Is that not the norm anymore?

CO requires notarized bill of sale.

Ed

In some minds, that would be a bill of sale.

Well, you've given him your opinions. Now it's up to him to make the decision, not any of us.

If I were him, I'd check with the DMV myself and see what they require, then make my decision.

Regardless of the outcome, please report back as to the final selling price...we all want to learn from this!

Thanks,

Mike B

A lot will depend on how much the buyer wants it and his finances. And maybe a reluctant wife. I copied a bill of sale offline and I carry it with me most of the time so if I found that super bargain 1935 Plymouth I am ready. I used one when I gave a car to my granddaughter and my son had no problems.

Well, I’m a validated bolter……

I got a little wrapped up and went a little over what I was planning to spend. Won the bid at $12,100.00.

It’s not a financial hardship but was thinking I could get it for 10k. If I ended up overpaying, I will learn on the next truck. Hoping this turns out to be a GREAT deal when it arrives this week and get to really crawl around it.

Thank you to all of you for your helps and concerns!!

Man! I guess I'm out of touch on the value of these things.

If you have even a bill of sale showing it transferred from the last registered owner to the person you have purchased it from, you can show a chain of ownership that should make it easier to title. Still may have to do a bonded title. The last one I had done in CO cost me $150 on a 1977 motorcycle worth maybe $400. I did not have to wait even a month to apply for a title. They do a search against the VIN number to see if it was ever reported stolen, and if it comes up negative, you are golden. Of course laws vary widely from state to state. It's a good thing you are not trying to title it in CA! For a long time, they would have wanted back registration fees going back to the last time it was registered. Anyway, Good Luck! It looks like a good solid truck.
Tom

Seems like you were not the only one who thought it was worth 5 digits. Welcome to the wonderful world of big metal toys.

bartamos "big metal toys" Wow you sure have that right !!!