The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Replace fuel tank inlet gasket

49 3100. Is the gasket between the inlet pipe and the tank a pretty straight up replacement? I see two nuts that hold the pipe flange down. Of course I'll need to remove the neck that goes to truck exterior first and then cut a new gasket. Thanks.

There is no gasket. The outlet is welded to the tank. A 2" dia fuel hose is clamped to the outlet and to the filler neck

So no easy fix, finally read manual which says to sweat the flange in place after tightening. Thanks for inputs. Ed

If the tank is worth saving, you could take it to an auto radiator shop, they can re-solder it.

Forty9 You can solder that back at home,just have to be sure there are no fuel vapors to blow. Let it dry in the sun,then run small engine exhaust into it to dispel any possible fumes. Use ruby fluid for flux,tin it up then solder. See that procedure on the net.

If you use an old fashioned soldering iron (a chunk of copper with a handle) it would be safer than trying to use a torch to solder it. You can control the heat much better than with a torch and without explosion hazard.

I,ve soldered holes in gas tanks with gas in it many times using a soldering iron like Klhansen speaks of. Could hear hot solder drip into the gasoline. Never gets hot enough to ignite.

Liquid gasoline is harder to ignite than fumes. It would probably be safer to fill the tank to the top rather than leave it mostly empty with a large volume of vapor inside.

Maybe water 💦

I always fill with water.

Ed

50/50 solder melts at 421 deg. F.
Gasoline vapors require 536 deg. to ignite.
You will never blow up a gas tank by soldering with a hot copper iron. Period.

I’ve used a large copper soldering iron as Kevin has suggested that you heat with a torch away from the tank, to solder pinholes in a tank with successful results. Your going to have to remove the flange, clean both surfaces to get a successful bond, then re-solder into place which is going to take allot of heat to get a good bond, so can’t say that iron will produce be enough heat to be successful.

If it was me, I would bring it to a radiator shop and see if they would be able do it. If not, I would buy a new tank. Theys are not that expensive.

Here's mine. Has outlasted 3 generations. One of the tools you just don't see much anymore. Some younger Bolters may be unsure what one looks like.

Otto Our local pro weldor would always fill the tank before welding on a trailer hitch. He done several ,his last one the stinger got away,punched a hole in the tank,burned the car,the shop,the whole works !! That was 40 years ago.

Jethro Mine look just like that,heat with a gasoline blow torch...outdoors !!

You've gotten great answers to your original question, here's my nickels worth of advice - after spending numerous hours re-conditioning a "rusty on the inside" tank I finally bought a new one from Rock Auto , Spectrum Premium, GM55A. Fit perfectly and after all the previous hassle, rust particles in the carb, clogged fuel filter....well, you get the picture. Best $180 ( now $201 ) I spent on the truck.

And Spectrum is made in Canada and is better quality than the original in my opinion.