The door lock and ignition switch use the same key. A second key is used for the box lock.
I am unaware of a code number stamped on the locks. But, from the factory and when new there would have been a number stamped on the key on a small removable tab attached to the key. Those tabs would have been removed by the new owner or upon delivery by the dealer. That number would have been or was recommended to have been recorded for future reference as needed.
A locksmith might have a ring of keys, or know of someone that might have such, that should be able to help?
There is a number on the lock inside, secret disassembly steps required if you lost key and didn’t write it down It’s 4 digits Canada and USA share the same lock number lookup table With those 4 numbers your locksmith can cut a key without seeing the lock or the truck My local locksmith took apart a glove box and ignition lock for me in Canada Emailed a guy he knows in the USA who looked up the key machine settings for him and he produced a perfect key for my grandpas old farm truck. -s
On the AD trucks, there's a code on the door lock cylinder. If you can pull the door lock out, you should be able to get the code off it. The codes were the same from 1935 thru 1966. More info in this post. Scroll up 2 posts from there and DADS50 posted a pic of where the code is on the door lock. Most any locksmith (not the key duplicators at the hardware stores) can cut you a key if you have the code.
If all else fails, send me your ignition lock and I can see if I have a key that will fit and send it back to you. I've collected about 150 different keys.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You shouldn’t have to remove the latch, just the lock which is held in place by a retainer located under the weatherstrip.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The piece at the yellow arrow pulls out to release the lock.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The piece at the yellow arrow pulls out to release the lock.
You are right Kevin, but in his case the latch mounting plate is overlapping that clip. Unless he is going to do some "bending", latch plate at least needs to have mount screws loosened/removed to push it out of the way to pull the clip and then reinstall.
Sorry Sparky!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Maybe there's enough slop in the slot that the clip can be pried out from behind the latch plate. On my truck, there were prongs (or barbs) on the spring steel clip that keep it in place. Maybe the one on Sparky's truck is aftermarket without the prongs.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I could be all wet on this install, but having had that lock assembly on and off multiple times when doing the restoration because of assorted problems with more than just the lock, this set up was the only one that seemed to work??? At least it has so far. If another option is better/correct I’m all for making a change.
Sparky, Here's the same style door lock retainer that's on my truck. Link
The filling Station also sells a universal lock retainer clip Link
Notice that both have a smaller portion that shows on the outside edge of the door. Yours appears to be much bigger there, and enough to lap under the latch plate.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Harold, you could probably take it to a locksmith and have them pick it open in order to get the cylinder out. I'm not sure if the pins for matching it to your key are still available for the Briggs & Stratton lock cylinders. They could drill out the cylinder and replace it with a reproduction cylinder, which are widely available, and you could get a matched set if desired. I don't know what the quality would be as I haven't bought any.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I had a locksmith re-pin two locks on my '52 GMC about 8 years ago so both doors, the glove box and the ignition were all the same.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.