The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1962 235 oil pump

I haven’t run this engine since 2005,when I replaced all the gaskets as it had been sitting since 1984. I thought I was getting close until I spun the oil pump tonight and got nothing in the pressure gauge line, oil filter canister or rocker arm. The only thing I can think of is asking the collective wisdom and experience here if the pump needs to be primed? Dump some more 15W40 down the distributor hole?


Thanks in advance!!!

Paul

What did you spin the pump with?

There is a 1/8" NPT pipe plug in the center of the cylinder head above the distributor. Remove it, and adapt a piece of fuel line a couple of feet long to the hole. Fill the line with oil, and use a little air pressure to push it into the engine. "Rinse and repeat" a few times. This will fill the oil galleries and help the pump prime itself. You could also fill the metal tube of a grease gun with oil and hand pump it into the oil galleries, either through the cylinder head hole or the oil pressure fitting on the driver's side of the block.
Jerry

I used a big flat head screwdriver in my cordless Milwaukee drill

Thanks Jerry

I’ll give that a go tomorrow, I have a barbed / 1/8”NPT brass fitting that should hook into my big oil injecting syringe!!!

Sounds like a plan. Filling the oil galleries should get enough to back up into the pump to get it working.
Jerry

Just a thought- - - - -you are being sure to turn the pump shaft clockwise, right? When the pump pressures up, be sure to have a good grip on the drill motor- - - -it will torque to the left pretty firmly.
Jerry

Well, I used my suction grease gun and filled the oil galleries with about a 1/4l (I’m in Canada) of 15W40 and slowly feed the other 3/4l into the distributor hole, it took about 3 minutes of spinning the pump before everything pressured up. I was just starting into my swearing sailor routine as nothing was happening for so long that I was beginning to worry that something was really wrong!! Proof again that swearing can fix just about anything!!!


Thanks again for the assistance/advice gentlemen!!!

Hi Jerry

Ya, I was going clockwise

There was definitely no mistaking it when the oil pump loaded up, it really torqued!!!!

Good on ya for being persistent. The true indication that a guy is a real pro is the ability to swear nonstop for 10 minutes in at least two languages, without repeating himself! Think about all the load that's on that little bitty oil pump drive tang on the bottom of the distributor shaft on a cold start with thick oil!
Jerry

I guess she was eager to wake up!!

I primed the fuel lines with a little RC fuel hand pump and really wasn’t expecting this!!


https://youtube.com/shorts/iEcwst4X2d0?feature=share

After installing the Rad and filling her up with antifreeze, I brought her up to temp and so far so good, no leaks!!!

I disassembled this engine except for the crank and pistons and replaced all the gaskets, etc in 2005 as it had been sitting in a field in the 62 biscayne that it was born with since 1984! I dragged it home off the farm and fired it up for a quick 5-10 minute drive up and down the driveway and was really expecting some kind of a setback after sitting since 2005!!

Anyways here’s what it sounds like with Fenton headers, Waldrons stainless dual exhaust and a pair of Porter mufflers

https://youtube.com/shorts/9lUg7LlTUwk?feature=share

Congrats on getting her started. It sound great with those duals!

Since the important factors in exhaust tone are:
Firing order (assume 153624)
Cylinder size
Cylinder pressure (torque)
Compression ratio
Exhaust valve opening point *earlier is louder)

There has to be some combination of parts (lengths, diameters, boxes, resonators) to make it sound like an XK-E (or my Lexus 2JZ 3.0 liter)!!

A 500 watt amp, lots of speakers and a recording of an XK-E would be the cheapest way.

Don't forget the ozone smell and electrical smoke for the full XKE experience.

Better include a puddle under the bell housing and a slippy clutch from the leaky rear main bearing seal- - - - -A Jag DOHC is the only engine capable of leaking more oil into the bell housing than a stovebolt!

Rides rough- - - - -

Makes noise- - - - -

Leaks oil- - - - - -

Ignition drowns out on a slightly humid day- - - - -

Gotta be a Brit sports car!
Jerry

I’ve had 3 British cars!

1963 MGB
1962 Sunbeam Alpine
Currently a 1959 Triumph TR3


Never had a single electrical issue with any of them, if you leave the Lucas electrics alone, as they left the factory, they are rock solid. It’s when you start splicing into them, messing with the +GND, etc. you’re asking for trouble!! Exactly the same as modifying/tweaking a Harley, the only thing you know for sure when you alter a Harley is that you’ve killed the reliability!!!

You're experience is extremely rare.

Brand new MG Midget's lights would come on by themselves and flash. They only stopped doing that when they were actually turned on.

MGB, only a few years old and unmolested wouldn't run the heater, lights, and wipers at the same time.

Don't get me started on the Humber Super Snipe.

And produces 265 hp from 3.8 liters

Locking this thread. The OP’s question has been answered and the thread has gone haywire!