I am trying to assess the steering box and column that I have. The threads on the wheel end are pretty boogered up, but it seems to rotate well from stop to stop with pretty much no play. Although half-way through the rotation it gets a little stiff at one point but then loosens up again, I figure probably from sitting for so long. So I am going to try to repair the threads and use the box as is without rebuilding it cuz I dont believe I possess the skills and patience to properly rebuild it. I looked into a new unit from Classic Parts but with shipping and returning the core it gets kinda pricey, and they are back ordered with no due date. So.
1. What is the thread size at the steering wheel, 1/2-20? 2. Do you think the stiffness in the center of the rotation is anything to be concerned of? 3. Is the column clamp seal just a piece of rubber that goes around the column? Looks like I could make one. 4. What are the 2 screw holes for that are on the bottom side of the column, about 3 inches or so down from the top?
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
First check the grease in the box. Fill it with a type of grease that will settle but not flow. Seems like most guys are using John Deer cornhead grease. if the sector adjustment is too tight it will cause the shaft to bind on center. Loosen the lock nut & back out the sector screw a little ways. Tighten he lock nut down & try it again. A small drag should be felt when you cross the center. Yes you can make you own rubber to go around the jacket at the dash mount. I can't place the screw holes. They might be for a neutral switch for models with AT. Some have a hole with a cover where the horn wire or turn switch wire come out. A photo might help. I believe the wheel retaining nut is 1/2 20.
George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
4. What are the 2 screw holes for that are on the bottom side of the column, about 3 inches or so down from the top?
Are you sure they're on the bottom? There are two screw holes about that far from the steering wheel for the shifter knuckle for the 3 on the tree shifter. See the attached pic. It's possible that someone bolted the column on the gear box upside down (or maybe they did that for floor shift models.) There is also a screw hole where the horn wire comes out, with a metal clip held on by the screw. The slight binding at the center of the wheel travel is normal. These are pretty easily cleaned up and re-lubed and adjusted. Check the Service Manual for the specs on adjustments of the worm nut and the sector engagement. It takes either an inch-pound torque wrench or a fish scale that goes down to 1 pound.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I 2nd comments on Lares. They just rebuilt my Saginaw 1946 Chevrolet truck original column. Great service, turnaround as promised and finished product was excellent…looks and acts like new.
#2 Yes but there can be more than one cause. Isolate the problem. First read up on the steering box service (http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0539.htm) (http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/52mts20/index.htm) to get an idea of what internal parts are involved. Second remove the drag link and see if the tightness is still felt when rotating the steering wheel. If it is try adjusting the worm bearing adjuster to remove any shaft play. If no help then jack up the truck and put jack stands under the frame. Grab a wheel and check that there is not restriction making the wheels swing full left and right.
Thanks for all the input. I was able to cut some new threads on the column shaft. I am gonna use it as is.
Here is a picture of the 2 mystery holes on the column.
Was wondering how the horn is wired. I have a single wire coming out of the column but it doesn't look like a wire comes up to the steering wheel center. Another mystery for me
Yep, those holes match where the shifter knuckle would bolt on (with the screws shown). That horn wire goes up to an insulated bushing (similar to the picture) below the steering wheel that gets grounded when you push the horn button. You should have a spring loaded piece linkin a hole in the steering wheel that the horn button contacts when pushed.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
So that bushing goes over the shaft under the steering wheel but how does that wire feed down through the column because it's closed with a bearing at the top of the shaft. I have only dealt with 67 Pontiacs where the wire comes up through the column and has that same type of contact. Thanks for your patience, I'm a little slow, especially in the winter
The wire coming up the steering column connects to the bearing at the top of the steering column. When installed, the bearing has a brass ring looking out of the column tube that mates up with the horn button brush/spring that touches the bottom of the horn contact plate. The horn button mounts on the top of the horn button plate. When you push the horn button you supply a ground for the horn.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
That's why we have this -> I've used it a time or two myself.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.