The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 61 guests, and 4 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,024
Posts1,055,395
Members48,422
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1476892 11/29/2022 6:06 PM
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
I am trying to assess the steering box and column that I have. The threads on the wheel end are pretty boogered up, but it seems to rotate well from stop to stop with pretty much no play. Although half-way through the rotation it gets a little stiff at one point but then loosens up again, I figure probably from sitting for so long. So I am going to try to repair the threads and use the box as is without rebuilding it cuz I dont believe I possess the skills and patience to properly rebuild it. I looked into a new unit from Classic Parts but with shipping and returning the core it gets kinda pricey, and they are back ordered with no due date. So.

1. What is the thread size at the steering wheel, 1/2-20?
2. Do you think the stiffness in the center of the rotation is anything to be concerned of?
3. Is the column clamp seal just a piece of rubber that goes around the column? Looks like I could make one.
4. What are the 2 screw holes for that are on the bottom side of the column, about 3 inches or so down from the top?

Thanks
Paul
52 GMC


1952 GMC
Starting with a basket case
In the Project Journals
1967 GTO
1967 Firebird
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,212
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,212
You should start every new thread by telling us what year, make and model truck you're working on, so we don't have to guess...

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
52 Gmc 1/2 ton


1952 GMC
Starting with a basket case
In the Project Journals
1967 GTO
1967 Firebird
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,694
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,694
Lares will rebuild your steering gear. Classic is buying theirs from Lares anyway.

They rebuilt the one on my '76 F-150 and did an excellent job. They can even change the gear ratio to give you fewer turns lock to lock.

https://catalog.larescorp.com/part/8016/

https://www.larescorp.com/

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 11/29/2022 8:47 PM.

1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
First check the grease in the box. Fill it with a type of grease that will settle but not flow. Seems like most guys are using John Deer cornhead grease.
if the sector adjustment is too tight it will cause the shaft to bind on center. Loosen the lock nut & back out the sector screw a little ways. Tighten he lock nut down & try it again. A small drag should be felt when you cross the center.
Yes you can make you own rubber to go around the jacket at the dash mount.
I can't place the screw holes. They might be for a neutral switch for models with AT. Some have a hole with a cover where the horn wire or turn switch wire come out.
A photo might help.
I believe the wheel retaining nut is 1/2 20.

George


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Originally Posted by pauld
4. What are the 2 screw holes for that are on the bottom side of the column, about 3 inches or so down from the top?
Are you sure they're on the bottom? There are two screw holes about that far from the steering wheel for the shifter knuckle for the 3 on the tree shifter. See the attached pic. It's possible that someone bolted the column on the gear box upside down (or maybe they did that for floor shift models.) There is also a screw hole where the horn wire comes out, with a metal clip held on by the screw.
The slight binding at the center of the wheel travel is normal. These are pretty easily cleaned up and re-lubed and adjusted. Check the Service Manual for the specs on adjustments of the worm nut and the sector engagement. It takes either an inch-pound torque wrench or a fish scale that goes down to 1 pound.
Attachments
IMG_4449.JPG (393.66 KB, 202 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 100
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 100
I 2nd comments on Lares. They just rebuilt my Saginaw 1946 Chevrolet truck original column. Great service, turnaround as promised and finished product was excellent…looks and acts like new.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
B
Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon
B Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
#1 http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0539.htm
https://www.classicparts.com/1947-72-Steering-Wheel-Retainer-Nut/productinfo/76-955/

#2 Yes but there can be more than one cause. Isolate the problem. First read up on the steering box service (http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0539.htm) (http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/52mts20/index.htm) to get an idea of what internal parts are involved. Second remove the drag link and see if the tightness is still felt when rotating the steering wheel. If it is try adjusting the worm bearing adjuster to remove any shaft play. If no help then jack up the truck and put jack stands under the frame. Grab a wheel and check that there is not restriction making the wheels swing full left and right.

#3 Yes. You can buy one but the shipping is a killer. https://www.classicparts.com/1947-53-Steering-Column-Clamp-Bushing/productinfo/32-306/

#4 ??? Flashlight holder or something like an add-on turnsignal device of some type.

Last edited by buoymaker; 11/30/2022 3:33 PM.

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,194
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,194
This is the best information you find on your steering box. https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157632210242370/
I used leather to hold my steering column, it looks more old fashion then plain rubber.

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
Thanks for all the input. I was able to cut some new threads on the column shaft. I am gonna use it as is.

Here is a picture of the 2 mystery holes on the column.

Was wondering how the horn is wired. I have a single wire coming out of the column but it doesn't look like a wire comes up to the steering wheel center. Another mystery for me
Attachments
20221130_130706.jpg (114.48 KB, 105 downloads)


1952 GMC
Starting with a basket case
In the Project Journals
1967 GTO
1967 Firebird
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Yep, those holes match where the shifter knuckle would bolt on (with the screws shown). That horn wire goes up to an insulated bushing (similar to the picture) below the steering wheel that gets grounded when you push the horn button. You should have a spring loaded piece linkin a hole in the steering wheel that the horn button contacts when pushed.
Attachments
gr-21.jpg (23.87 KB, 151 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
So that bushing goes over the shaft under the steering wheel but how does that wire feed down through the column because it's closed with a bearing at the top of the shaft. I have only dealt with 67 Pontiacs where the wire comes up through the column and has that same type of contact.
Thanks for your patience, I'm a little slow, especially in the winter


1952 GMC
Starting with a basket case
In the Project Journals
1967 GTO
1967 Firebird
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,436
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,436
The wire coming up the steering column connects to the bearing at the top of the steering column. When installed, the bearing has a brass ring looking out of the column tube that mates up with the horn button brush/spring that touches the bottom of the horn contact plate. The horn button mounts on the top of the horn button plate. When you push the horn button you supply a ground for the horn.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
Ah ha. I was looking at the brass collar at the top of the column thinking it just a bearing seal, but that IS the horn button contact....duh


1952 GMC
Starting with a basket case
In the Project Journals
1967 GTO
1967 Firebird
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,002
No worries, we're here to help. smile

That's why we have this -> dang I've used it a time or two myself. grin


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
B
Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon
B Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
Shifter Mount Pic
Attachments
Shifter Mount Holes.jpg (64.39 KB, 65 downloads)


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0