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Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
What is the most accepted way to drain the steering box... remove the large end-play adjustment screw??


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
Back to Life
In the Dity Gallery
1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,279
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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It depends on what is in there. If someone put axle grease in there, you can use a big screwdriver and painstakingly pull out as much out through the fill hole the best that you can. It's a matter of dipping the screwdriver in and move it around until it is covered with grease, pull it out, wipe it off, "wash/rinse/repeat", and then fill it with Cornhead grease.
There will still be some axle grease in there, but it will mix nicely with the Cornhead grease and work fine.
I have just added some 90 weight oil to the axle grease in one to buy some time until I had time to rebuild the steering box. That helped.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
Will use "cotton picker spindle grease"... same stuff.


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
Back to Life
In the Dity Gallery
1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,213
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,213
You will need to readjust it no matter how you take it apart, so either the side cover or the bottom will work. It would really be best to pull the unit out of the truck and clean it correctly if it's really gummed up, then you could replace the seal and worn bushings if need be. I would fill it with solvent, unhook the pitman arm and turn it lock to lock a bunch to wash the insides, then pull one of the caps to drain if I didn't pull it from the truck. Repeat several times if needed. If it's not terrible looking when checking it with screwdriver or stick, just add some 50/50 grease/gear oil mixture and go.

Joined: Jan 2022
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B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,450
Originally Posted by Joe H
... and turn it lock to lock a bunch to wash the insides...

Maintenance Manual warns against running hard against the limits. Just take it easy.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: Mar 2010
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5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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What Bill said. Once you "unhook the pitman arm", there will be no "lock to lock."
If you go too far you will severely damage the ends of the ball bearing guides.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
Yeah, I've been studying the book like this is a final exam. Want to know everything I can about this box before I do this.


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
Back to Life
In the Dity Gallery
1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,485
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,485
Please don't even bump "lock to lock" or "end to end" (of turning sweep, that is). It is easy to mess the ball bearing guides up if you do. For what it is worth, I mix corn head grease and 90 weight oil into a slurry and use that. In cold weather even corn head grease can stiffen and you don't want any channeling of the grease at all. I've taken some boxes apart which were run using what appeared to be common chassis grease and it pretty well ruined them.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 157
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 157
I had good experience filing it with diesel, and let it sit over night.
Drain it all out, and than rinse with diesel a few times more.

How good that works probably depends on what kind of grease you have in there though.
And yeah - it needs to be out of the truck of course.

Frank

Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
The grease inside looked good. Just not enough. Used 00 spindle grease to fill within a half-inch of the top. 21 degrees last night and the 00 was still able to be poured through a funnel into a squeeze container. Drove it around the block (about 20 miles) to get it mixed up and checked it again.


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
Back to Life
In the Dity Gallery
1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020

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