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Joined: May 2022
Posts: 28
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2022
Posts: 28
Greetings, Fellow Bolters! I’m working on replacing the windshield glass in my ‘39 1/2 ton but the windshield regulator handle is not functioning. The handle spins freely when you turn it initially in either direction but then binds up. The tongue seems to be in really good condition and I see no apparent damage.

I was wondering if anyone can give me a suggestion as to how I can manually (without using the handle) activate the regulator so I can push the windshield out far enough to remove the bottom bracket that connects the tongue to the windshield frame.

Thanks very much for any tips or assistance you can give me!

Mike


1939 1/2 ton Chevy
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,715
W
back yard wrench turner
back yard wrench turner
W Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,715
You should be able to push the bottom of the window with your hand while cranking it open.


Wayne
1938 1-Ton Farm Truck
Stovebolt Gallery Forums
1989 Silverado
1996 Mustang GT convertible
When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!

Joined: May 2022
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2022
Posts: 28
Thanks, Wayne! I did apply slight pressure and felt no movement and I didn’t want to be too forceful. I will try it again and see if I can get it to move.

Does anyone know if there is a certain part of the regulator I can try and turn under the dash to perform the same action as when the handle is turned?

Thanks again!


1939 1/2 ton Chevy
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,123
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Mike
I don’t think so. My guess, based on a little experience with these regulators is the gears inside the housing are badly worn after years of usage. I can take some photos of what these look like for a ‘37 low cab roof model, later today. Unfortunately, the metals used in these were not as robust as long term use would need. I should add that when I restored my ‘46 I recall comparing the two regulator models and there were a few differences, especially in how they were mounted to the dash.

The assembly can be removed and sent for rebuild or a replacement has recently become available. Neither option is particularly inexpensive. I attempted a rebuild the ‘37 myself, but without the necessary machine tools and knowledge was unsuccessful. In the meantime a suitable replacement was found.

Last edited by 46Sparky; 10/28/2022 4:18 PM.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
B
Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
Mike have you tried looking underneath the dash with a flashlight to see what is happening while the crank handle is turned?
More feedback is needed.

The regulator is GM 598876. Appears to be held by two fasteners on the backside of the dash.
I believe the stainless piece is called the tongue. This part can be purchased new (reproduction).
There is a stop rivet at the end to prevent the tongue from becoming free. Maybe remove rivet?
https://www.classychevusa.com/index...13/category_id=339/mode=prod/prd1813.htm
Turning the crank handle in both directions and feeling a stopping resistance means the windshield is stuck (to me).
Be careful with exerting pressure on the windshield frame. It can warp and cause fitting/sealing problems later.
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03.jpg (24 KB, 56 downloads)

Last edited by buoymaker; 10/28/2022 6:23 PM.

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2022
Posts: 28
Thank you for your responses and suggestions 46Sparky and Bouymaker! I will be working on the truck again in a couple of weeks and will attempt to again gently push out the windshield while cranking. If that doesn’t work, I’ll snap some pics and let you know what I’m seeing.

Take care!

Mike


1939 1/2 ton Chevy
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 97
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 97


1946 with WWII 270
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,123
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,123
I’d forgotten about that Tech Tip! It was helpful during my attempted rebuild for the ‘37 regulator. I now also recall why I had to go the replacement route. It was overcoming the problem referenced in Kip’s Slide #6, the elongated hole in the pot metal casting the worm gear passes through. The specific problem encountered was not having the necessary tools, at that time, to precisely drill through the plug filled wallowed hole.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
B
Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
Me too. Finally found the posting for the similar problem on a 38. Peggy posted the Tech Tip.
Somebody rub my nose it it so I don't forget next time.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/670601/


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."

Moderated by  klhansen 

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