I have two pictures attached, I know that the front main does not have any seal, I am wondering if the grove shown in the picture requires one on the 1933 207?
Any help is much appreciated!
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
No seal there- - - -there should be a spiral groove at the back of the crankshaft that moves oil toward the crankcase. Whatever doesn't get trapped by the spiral should get thrown off by the slinger before it gets to the outside. The angled groove in the bearing also moves oil toward the crankcase. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thank you for the responses, it back together now I’m just waiting on some information on the oil pump that was in it?
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
If the pump was making good oil pressure, you're probably good to go. It's pretty common for the pressure to be a little high on a cold engine, and then drop pretty dramatically as the oil and the engine parts warm up to normal running temp. 5-10 PSI at hot idle isn't unusual on a spray-oiler engine, rising t0 20-25 or so at highway speed.
The bearing in your picture looks like it's contacting the crankshaft with less than 1/3 of its available area (the shiny spot). I'm not sure if the insert type bearing can be scrape-fitted for a better contact patch, but that's why I always fit Babbit rods to as big as possible of a contact area before I begin to adjust the clearance with shims. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
With the shims, shims are .0014. Two reading each journal front to back. Front .003,.002 Middle .002, .002 Rear ..002, .003
I find it a little weird that to two ends are .003?
Looks like I’m in the window! Thanks for all the help everyone!
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
I find it a little weird that to two ends are .003?
Even a tiny bit of uneven wear on the crankshaft journal or the bearing will produce different clearance depending on where you measure. Since a strand of hair is around .0015" in diameter, it doesn't take much wear or out of round to produce some oddball clearance measurements. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hello all, I was told by another forum that I am not supposed to shim main bearing inserts, you can see the wear marks this to me indicates a hot spot in the bearing. I shimmed it like I mentioned and the crank rotates a little easier. Now my next question? Should I go through and check all the rod caps or will the .0014 not be an issue?
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
