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| | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 | I have read and reread the shop manual and the devestechnet article. I am now trying to remove the pinion gear and drive shaft. The entire rear and torque tube are out and on a bench. I have removed the trans trunnion bearing yoke as well as the 3 driveshaft locking bolts from the differential housing at the rear.
I am under the impression that the pinion gear and full drive shaft should now pull out rearward. I have tried all sorts of leverage at the pinion gear as noted in the devestechnet article. Can the shaft and pinion gear be driven out by striking the transmission end of the driveshaft? Is there a puller that can be used on the pinion gear in the diff housing?
Any and all experience and input is greatly appreciated
"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,040 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,040 | The 48-51 shop manual says after removing the bearing retaining screws from the differential housing, "tap the splined end of the propeller shaft allowing the pinion shaft to slide out."
The 1/2 ton torque tube axles were pretty much the same up thru 55, with only minor changes. So you should be able to drive the shaft out from the transmission end. I would use something relatively soft (a soft faced hammer or wood block) to prevent damaging the splines.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2019 Posts: 158 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2019 Posts: 158 | I recently removed the pinion gear and shaft from a ‘46 due to a couple of chipped teeth. I did have to use a block of wood and a heavy hammer to knock it out of the tube. It also had the Oakie bushing installed too which I am sure contributed to the resistance. I hope this helps.
I invest my money in precious metals, mostly rust!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 | Thanks folks. Oakie bushing! Yes getting that out might help.
"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,773 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,773 | Once all the setscrews are removed, a block of hardwood and a BFH or a splitting maul should get it moving. It's probably stuck pretty tight after being there for several decades. You might also consider heating the housing where the setscrews are located and maybe squirting some penetrating oil like PB Blaster through the holes.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 360 | Well. The wood and BFH did the trick. Thanks gents.
"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
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