My 1933 207 is leaking oil behind the harmonic damper, I just swapped engines a few seals and gaskets. I reinstalled the oil slinger the way it came out but not sure if it was correct.
1 cup towards the crank gear? 2 cup towards the cam cover?
There is not a seal on this year that I am aware of? Any help is appreciated!
BB
Last edited by BBMONG; 09/20/202210:14 AM.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
This engine has stamps on it as a reman but I think someone else was in there afterwards.
Ended up with 2 motors built 1 month apart so it worked out that I had a good spare for some parts. I still want to keep both running.
The one I took out had a noise in the lower end After pulling it and flipping it on a stand I found out the oil trough spot weld popped so I’m hopeful that was my noise?
I now need to learn how to check all the Babbitt on the pulled engine making sure the oil pan was the noise and not an out of round crank or rod end.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
That’s the way I have it and it’s spilling out oil and slinging oil out behind the harmonic damper, I will pull radiator today and run it for a few seconds with hope to see where it’s spuing the oil. There is no seal for this year that I can find.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
So after running it with harmonic damper off about 30 seconds oil spill out the damper shaft hole once engine is shut down. I took pictures I have figure out how to post them.
Any help is appreciated. BB
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
Drop me a private message and I'll be glad to share the method of fitting and checking oil clearance on Babbit rods that I learned back in the 1950's. It's a little complicated, but that type of bearing can be clearance-adjusted repeatedly, as long as there's some soft metal left in the big end of the rod. I believe I've still got some reconditioned 207 rods stashed away that I'll probably never use, that might be useful to you. Running the engine with the damper off will guarantee a leak. The damper hub should have a reverse spiral that pushes the oil back toward the slinger, and there should also be some weep holes for the oil to run through back into the crankcase. All those passages and the helix on the damper hub can get clogged with sludge. Loose main bearing clearances can also cause oil leaks from the crankshaft bouncing up and down. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Trying the video and pictures so you can see what I’ve found out so far? 1 picture shows a dent I found. 1 picture shows the slinger rubbing. 1 picture shows uneven gap due to dent on camshaft cover. Last picture show .030 gap between cam cover and crankshaft shelf.
No should I be worried about this gap?
Last edited by BBMONG; 09/20/20227:53 PM.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
BBMONG, please post as many photos as you like but only do LINKS to your video. Posting videos directly uses up too much bandwidth. Thanks
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Will do, just need to figure the video thing no worries and thanks for what you do.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
The thread gives great instructions and help on posting pictures and videos properly.
You can find the "IT Short Bus" in the Back Office Forum Here
You should be able to go back into your post with the videos, edit them out and repost the "modified links" in the 'text" box (instead of through the "Attachment Manager" tool).
Send me a PM if you need more help!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
How much clearance is there between the damper hub and the timing cover? If the front main bearing has gotten worn at some time in the past and let the damper rub the cover, it's possible that the clearance is a lot more than it once was. There should be no more than a few thousandths between the cover and the damper hub, and a close tolerance on the front main bearing. If the spiral groove in the damper isn't fairly deep, it's likely that the damper hub is worn. It would probably be possible to machine the hub down slightly, press a repair sleeve with the right clearance onto it, and re-cut the oil groove. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I got the new seal and put a different cover on a non dented cover. I was hoping the dent was the issue but guess not, still leaking like a shiv! the gap around the cover and damper looks to be about .030 all around. The other engine looks to be the same and it didn’t leak. I checked the drain hole and was able to blow air in it and it seemed clear. The pictures attached shows damper and damper cover gap.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
That balancer hub looks extremely rough, and there probably should be a deep, rapid spiral groove cut into it- - - -like maybe 0.010" deep, and 0.100" per turn on the spiral. I don't think I've ever seen a balancer without a seal with a surface that rough. Most of my exposure to those types of hub/slinger engines without seals has been on non-Chevy applications, however. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
That balancer hub looks like everyone I have seen. I suspect to much oil is getting past the main bearing, as Jerry mentioned, although I am surprised the oil slinger is not stopping it.
I think there is a cork seal that is supposed to go there? The only place Ive seen it is in the full gasket kit on eBay, 2205 timing cover cork, still looking to find one without having to buy the whole gasket set.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
Wondering if Oil pressure could cause my problem? What should the pressure be? It’s currently 25-30 but that is on nearly 100 year old gage.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
If the main bearing clearance is excessive, there will be a lot of oil squirting out toward the hub, maybe more than the slinger can deflect. Have you checked it yet? Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I have been avoiding pulling the pan, but I guess it’s the next step!
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
That is not a dum question at all, I just assumed it was correct. I have to pull the cover again and will check it. My next question is will a 35 timing cover and damper fit so I can put a seal in it? I am trying not to pull the oil pan as it’s been a pain in the neck getting the seals correct on this thing and have had it off twice already, if I have to drop it and check bearing clearance with some gage material I will do what needs to be done. Can you remind me of the angle the tube should be at again as I do not have a manual yet.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
I ran it for 10 seconds and the picture shows how much oil is coming out behind the crank gear?
Off the wall question if someone had replaced the oil pump with a higher volume pump would it do this, last I checked with the gage that is installed it was reading 25-30 psi. I am aware it supposed to be lower.
I just ordered a new oil pan gasket so inevitably I will be dropping the pan to check the pump and the bearing. Might be a couple days as I have life to attend too.
Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks for sharing your knowledge this far.
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
My next question is will a 35 timing cover and damper fit so I can put a seal in it?
Timing cover gaskets are the same for 1929-34...1935/36 are not the same, so I'm guessing you can't put a 35/36 cover on your engine. I have never played with a 6 cylinder earlier than 1935, so I can't say what's different...
I have the hole lined up however I can’t see a drip or stream coming from it, might be from the geyser coming out from behind the gear causing pressure drop not too sure, thank you for responding.
My buddy has a 35 in a junk pile has everything I need to compare. I will post the differences once I dig it out from the pile of iron!
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
Pull the distributor and make a shaft to allow you to run the oil pump with a drill. With the timing cover off and the engine not running you should be able to see where all the oils is coming from and confirm the nozzle isn't clogged up...lack of oil at the gears will take the teeth right off the fiber cam gear...
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
To all those who have helped, I believe I have found the problem. Once I removed the oil pan I found that the front main was only hand Tight. I was told that the engine was ready to install and run, apparently not so much. Now I am going through and shimming all the mains and have yet more questions I will put another post up but I’m just giving everybody updates and thanks once again.
At least I hope this was the issue!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
My grandparents owned two 34 Chevy trucks set up as tractor-trailer rigs in the late 1930's. Mechanical brakes on the trucks, and NO brakes on the trailers! Later the trucks got retro-fitted with vacuum assist cylinders for the mechanical brakes, but the trailers stayed the same. They hauled beer from Milwaukee and St. Louis to Nashville. They also hauled dynamite to coal mines in east Tennessee and Kentucky, and the family owned an ice plant and a coal yard in Nashville, with a fleet of several makes and sizes of delivery vehicles. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hello all, big thank you to those who helped, I had the time to put the 33 207 back together, after shimming the 3 mains and actually torqued them the leak is no more, engine is running up to temp no leaks so excited about that! Thank you once again!
1933 207 stovebolt shoved into a Chevy 1/2 ton with all the 29-32 left overs. (Woody) - all original, originally old! Courage = Being scared to death, then going to do the task anyways!
"I love it when a plan comes together!" Good on ya for hanging in there! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
