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#1464161 08/27/2022 12:30 PM
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O
'Bolter
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Hello!

65 c10 here, the steering in the truck is very sloppy and difficult at times, sometimes requires constantly moving the steering wheel to keep it straight. I plan to replace the column and I know that will tighten it up but I noticed a lot of play in the connection point into the steering box, part of me thinks it almost looks broken? I have a video I’ll try to upload of it in action, if anyone can see a glaring problem in the photos I’d appreciate hearing it. I’ll deal with sloppy steering until I most likely replace the whole system but I’d at least like the piece of mind that I’m not going to loose steering going down the road!

Thanks!
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347BF5B3-F0F5-44D4-9BE3-76EBACF11EF2.jpeg (350.76 KB, 385 downloads)
2E4B9E51-A750-4138-93D5-5328B82B01E5.jpeg (277.93 KB, 384 downloads)


65 c10 shop truck
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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That coupling looks very suspicious. The metal parts appear to show evidence that they have been contacting each other, which shouldn't be happening. They're only there as a "fail safe" in case the flex coupling fails. That's probably one of the reasons the steering is squirrely. Also check the cab to frame mounts. One reason for repeated rag joint failures is sagged or rusty front cab mounts which puts stress on the rag joint from misalignment of the shafts.
Jerry


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Bolter
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As HRL said the joint appears a bit tight. Start by replacing the Rag Joint, there are 2 different types so make sure you get the right one for your application. Next adjust your steering box per the FAM. Make sure tie rod, ball joints, control arm bushings and drag link are all within factory specs. Most if not all the parts are available at your local parts store or Rockauto.com.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
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'Bolter
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A 65 truck did not come with that steering box. It is a Saganaw power steering replacement from a later vehicle. It was probably a used part when it was installed and likely needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Also check for a worn idler arm, ball joints, tie rod ends, and A arm bushings. All contribute to sloppy steering.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
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'Bolter
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OAstudio65 With stuff worn like that,better check your toe-in,that'll make em act up too.

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Good catch, Fred! thumbs_up


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Originally Posted by rfs56trk
A 65 truck did not come with that steering box. It is a Saganaw power steering replacement from a later vehicle. It was probably a used part when it was installed and likely needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Also check for a worn idler arm, ball joints, tie rod ends, and A arm bushings. All contribute to sloppy steering.
Fred

It could be a kit from REZ Engineering. I think they may be out of business now, but their kit was a good one. Easy to install, and only needed to make two cuts, one to modify a corner of the bumper bracket, and the other to shorten the shaft. When I did mine, that truck along with a front sway bar, handled so much better, and could actually get out of its own way. Unlike the school bus steering it had prior to the upgrade. Of course, his could be just a cobbled-up modification using junkyard parts.


Shane

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I have a question? Was the original manual box for these trucks in the same location as this power steering box, and did it also use a rag joint?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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Thanks for your responses y'all! Super helpful!

After hearing your comments and understanding what i am looking at and how it is supposed to work I know that the rag joint has failed and needs replaced, I'll start with that and start diagnosing the rest.

I haven't had an opportunity to drive it much because we are working out a problem with the title (a 2 that was print Z on the VIN). I did have a great 50 mile drive up the beach when I was delivering it to the trailer and it felt overall solid! I definitely had to stay on the steering the whole time.

I'll keep ya'll updated as I get into it!


65 c10 shop truck
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'Bolter
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I've learned not to question the State re misprints on titles.

My Cadillac's Vin begins with 5662...

56 represents the year and 62 represents the series. After that is the sequential serial number.

The State has the 5 listed as an S.

After initially trying to get it straightened out when I purchased the car, I ran into so many obstacles with registration and title bureaucrats that I decided to just shut up and go along with the S.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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To answer a question by 52Carl. The original gear box used a rag joint but the box was much smaller than the PS box.
The PS conversion requires a modification to the steering shaft, a mounting bracket, pitman arm, hoses, pump, pulley, etc.
The replacement gear box ends up generally in the same location.
The PS conversion used on these trucks is sourced from a 67-87 Chevy/GMC pickup.
Fred

Last edited by rfs56trk; 08/31/2022 3:58 PM.

1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
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5
Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by rfs56trk
To answer a question by 52Carl. The original gear box used a rag joint but the box was much smaller than the PS box.
The PS conversion requires a modification to the steering shaft, a mounting bracket, pitman arm, hoses, pump, pulley, etc.
The replacement gear box ends up generally in the same location.
The PS conversion used on these trucks is sourced from a 67-87 Chevy/GMC pickup.
Fred
Thanks Fred.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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Hi Y'all!

Wanted to check in and update, and lean on your wisdom...
I removed the steering column and shaft and removed the worn coupler, now I need to figure out what I need to put it back together.
The splines on the steering box and coupler have a flat side, all the steering couplers and rag joints i've searched are splined all around. I also wonder if it would be smart to get a new steering shaft with coupler if that is a thing.
Ultimately I will replace the column but i'm on a budget so i'm just going bit by bit.

Would love y'alls feedback on what i'm working with here!
Attachments
IMG_3702.jpg (205.7 KB, 124 downloads)
IMG_3704.jpg (368.82 KB, 123 downloads)
IMG_3703.jpg (428.13 KB, 124 downloads)
IMG_3706.jpg (244.93 KB, 123 downloads)
IMG_3708.jpg (272.08 KB, 122 downloads)
IMG_3707.jpg (413.01 KB, 122 downloads)


65 c10 shop truck
52Carl #1465955 09/10/2022 10:27 PM
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'Bolter
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This answers a lot of questions! thank you. I should search for 67-87 parts.


65 c10 shop truck
#1465995 09/11/2022 2:02 PM
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'Bolter
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Hey all,

I took out the old column and shaft in my 65 c10. The rag joint needed replaced. I’m no trying to find the correct parts to put it back together. It has a power steering conversion on it so the original shaft was modified.
I’m looking at this kit for rebuilding the rag joint and lower shaft (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-css-736730)
And need to come up with a solution to fit this to the steering Column. Do I need to modify the original shaft and how?

Thanks for your feedback!
Attachments
FA2E49AA-B3C8-4D4A-AF63-65EB297273CD.jpeg (203.01 KB, 115 downloads)
4DE8C794-C0A2-494D-A657-25B39C9C0383.jpeg (258.52 KB, 114 downloads)
68D7C7B3-8C1B-4B61-A5C8-2D60B862D69A.jpeg (269.84 KB, 113 downloads)


65 c10 shop truck
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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
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OAstudio65,

Had to go back to your initial "Sloppy Steering" post in the "Driveline" forum to see pictures of your current unusable rag joint.

Check out this link as a possible "replacement rag joint" as it appears to have the splines with D-flat you indicated is needed.

https://www.classicparts.com/1967-76-Steering-Rag-Joint-Coupler-Assembly-P_S/productinfo/SS-5152/#

Let us know on your progress. thumbs_up

One of the Moderators may want to merge the 2 posts as seems like all same topic??? headscratch


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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'Bolter
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Thanks, Gdads
This certainly looks to be the coupler I need, still unsure of how to attach it to the old steering shaft or if I need a new one.

I like the idea of upgrading to a collapsible shaft while I have the steering is apart.


65 c10 shop truck
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'Bolter
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There are universal repair parts available, https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...m0/31000?q=Steering+rag+joint&pos=11 Any parts store should have something to fit, they are not all that special. Search ( steering rag joint ) and you will get a whole host of parts to choose from. Clean up your steel pieces, replace the rubber and bolts and move on.

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Crusing in the Passing Lane
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The spline joints that join the pitman arm to the steering shaft have skip splines that can be removed with a 3 corner file, allowing the pitman are to be rotated to another position.

It looks like the box mounted in the above pictures only bolts to one side of the frame. This is a known weak point on GM vehicles. Safer to box frame with welded in sleeves to prevent crushing frame.

Ed


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'Bolter
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All I am attempting to do is replace the worn rag joint, the problems I was running into was 1.purchasing the wrong joint because I was unaware of the PS conversion and what year the compatible part where from and 2. The steering shaft being modified to hold the old rag joint. The old rag joint was riveted together on a steel tube that was then welded to the shaft. I was able cut and tap out the rivets on the steering shaft so I will be able to bolt on the new coupler once I get the right part.

I ended up ordering the coupler Gdads linked as it looks to be the same splines. Also the ‘new’ coupler I ordered was for a 65 and 3/4 36 spline and did not fit.

Hopefully it’s that simple and I’ll be back to driving soon.

Also, I don’t know if anyone has any suggestions for a simple solution for a column shift that is now a floor shift, still with the original column. Lots of extra bits in there that are just kinda rattling around


65 c10 shop truck

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