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'Bolter
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So , I was looking into a 6 lug front disc brake conversion kit for my 1953 ,3 speed manual. Cpp tells me that the brake booster will not work for frame mount , because crossmember being in the way. They tell me just to use the master cylinder ? Have any of you done anything differently for under frame mount with brake booster?


1953 with a 216
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
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iI had the same question a few weeks ago and came to the conclusion that I would need to buy the kit and figure out where it needed to be located and/or modified. One possible solution and at the top of my list, as suggested by a fellow ‘bolter “Coilover” who own’s and operates a body/hotrod shop in Texas, was to move the whole setup (booster & MC) back on the frame, then make a longer rod. Another ‘bolter said he was able to grind the offending section on the rear crossmember. I have also heard that you can buy a new tubular crossmember that eliminated the interference.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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I hate to do this to CPP but there is another headache and I know this complicates this topic, but it involves safety.
The CPP master cylinder is Asian made and there is a possible reliability issue:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1459439


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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Look around at other vendors like speedway᠁᠁many of the proportioning valves appear to be the same parts. Appear is the key word as there little documentation on the parts.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Disc-Drum-Proportioning-Valve-for-1-2-20-9-16-18-Outlets,9878.html

Last edited by showkey; 08/07/2022 12:55 PM.

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