I can not only not find original seat for this truck but dont even know how it would even latch in if i did?? Confused. Does anyone have any diagram pic or info?
'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
No one knows? Well these trucks are approaching 100 yrs old.. Its probably harder and harder to find the answer. This subject is crossing the older thread but different so I will explain what I am doing. I am custom welding an old seat frame to fit bc I didnt like any of th alternatives and this cab is small.. front of the seat is only 43" width.. back wider.. anyway once I add the foam and put it together; not sure how Im gonna attach it to the tub base on the '38.. maybe drill holes and hog ring it.. but really curious how they did it factory!
Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; 07/03/20227:40 PM.
'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
I remember on my truck it had an adjustment to move the bottom of the seat forward. It must have been floating on top of the riser somehow. I can't imagine anyone needing to move the seat forward. I barely have enough leg room with my replacement seat now.
Check with oldmemoriescc. Although he hasn't been on since oct 2021.
Last edited by Wayne67vert; 07/03/202210:05 PM.
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck Stovebolt Gallery Forums 1989 Silverado 1996 Mustang GT convertible When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Thanks to both of you. dunfire that is SUPER helpful!! I see so thats what those metal prongs are with the 3 settings. oh I see those are for the back part of the seat. And it looks like the seat is simply secured by the drivers weight and the wood stops too.
Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; 07/04/20224:21 PM.
'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
'unlike a '36, a '38 has the gas tank under the seat like my '37 except they moved the filler outside and put in a full bottom seat instead of the split flip up for the gas bung. yes the 3 notch thing is how the seat back adjusts. the bottom is stationary. they were all metal springs, no wood though the adjusters and mounting rails over the tank frame came out a few years down the road. Mine came with the wrong springs so I'm not sure the exact way the bottom clipped in but if you are fabbing you can be more creative than the original lame engineering and still look original.
Last edited by 37 GC; 07/06/20224:50 AM.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
The bottom rails in my seat bottoms were all cracked, so I welded in supports. The support rails fit just inside the seat riser so they stay in place. I have since added a small spacer so the front of the seat is now higher for more leg support.
"you can be more creative than the original lame engineering and still look original." I agree. Like Joes set up.. creative and looks real clean. I am thinking of welding 'L' brackets to my frame and bolting them in.. but it would be nice to get the seat out more easily like above.. plus the added supprt.
Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; 07/10/20223:49 AM.
'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
My truck was owned by a plumbing company in the Flint Hills of Kansas, the roads must have been rough and the driver must have been heavy because every support brace on the seat was cracked!
Well these trucks are approaching 100 yrs old.. Its probably harder and harder to find the answer. 
This subject is crossing the older thread but different so I will explain what I am doing. I am custom welding an old seat frame to fit bc I didnt like any of th alternatives and this cab is small.. front of the seat is only 43" width.. back wider.. anyway once I add the foam and put it together; not sure how Im gonna attach it to the tub base on the '38.. maybe drill holes and hog ring it.. but really curious how they did it factory! 