Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for
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| | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 | My 1969 Chevy C10 has just the "three" opening bezel. I have a new bezel with all 7 openings, and have adapted the insides to accept a center tach, oil, ammeter, and temp gauges which will be wired separately from my original circuit cluster.
Question is, can I just remove the brake and temp idiot light bulbs in order to eliminate these from the circuit without harm? I am using the original circuit cluster. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,435 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,435 | Taking the bulbs out won't hurt the truck. Mark the sockets in case the next guy needs to know.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | If you have an alternator warning light and you remove it, your alternator may not work afterwards.
~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 | One is for brake the other for temp. I'm hooking up an ammeter for the alternator. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 | Thanks Dave. Already marked, but physically self explanatory. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2020 Posts: 438 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2020 Posts: 438 | Do be careful when leaving bulbs out of a socket, be sure to wrap or otherwise protect that/those potentially hot wires, if they get power and touch something (grounds out) it can easily let the smoke out of the entire wiring system….
To take this further…when installing a wiring harness do not hot it up without a bulb in every single socket
Hank: 46 Chev 1/2ton shortbed
2023 Miata RF Club
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 | Do be careful when leaving bulbs out of a socket, be sure to wrap or otherwise protect that/those potentially hot wires, if they get power and touch something (grounds out) it can easily let the smoke out of the entire wiring system….
To take this further…when installing a wiring harness do not hot it up without a bulb in every single socket This is a printed circuit, no wires, and the bulbs are in parallel, so you can have a bulb out without affecting the other bulbs. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 | So far so good. Got the ammeter tested and working. Tach works. Have new electrical sensors for oil pressure and water temp. Just have to drain oil and water to install sensors, then test. Waiting for new printed circuit as the directional indicators are moved out from the tach installation. Might take awhile, but I will keep you posted. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 | Ammeter, temp, oil pressure, tach, all tested and working. Received my new circuit cluster. Now just waiting to get my truck back! In between all this I did some work on the exhaust and ended up twisting an exhaust manifold bolt off. Come to find out, the exhaust manifold was warped and leakiing (who knew, the truck was running just fine), so now waiting to receive a new exhaust manifold. One thing leads to another...but then it all comes together. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 63 | Just a note for future conversions. When you switch your bezel from 3 window to 7 gauge windows and new circuit cluster, you must move the wires on the plug in the back that goes into the new circuit cluster. The connections are not the same for all circuit clusters. Found this out the hard way after putting it all back together. | | |
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