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#1454020 06/05/2022 1:48 PM
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'Bolter
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Anyone know where to find toe-in settings for 51 6400,can't locate it in my 48 to 51 manuel. Guess I'll just try it at 1/4 inch. Amazeingly tie rod came loose easily after 71 yrs. Have soaked it with MMO for several weeks so probably helped a lot. Thoughts ??

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7
'Bolter
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The GM Heritage site has some info, I think 1/4" is the spec for my '57 2 ton LCF.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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'Bolter
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Ex Hall Monitor
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1/4" sounds like a lot to me but I guess it's the high side of spec. Most folks I know run around 1/8".


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fixite7 #1454155 06/06/2022 11:22 AM
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'Bolter
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Be sure to roll the truck forward one tire revolution on solid flat ground to load the steering joints. Don't let roll backwards or use the brakes to stop it. Do it this way to get a true " going down the road " setting. I would shoot for 1/8" .

Joe H #1454237 06/06/2022 8:45 PM
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'Bolter
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Joe H thank you and to all who replied,read where it's important that both tie rod ends are turned the same so it wont bind. Gonna go look at that,report back.

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5
Renaissance Man
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Toe-in can be more accurately be defined in terms of angle rather than inches. Why? If you have a much larger tire diameter (such as in a 6400), 1/8" toe-in would not give you the same angle as would a much smaller diameter tire.
If the Book calls for 1/4", that would make the toe-in angle very close to that of a 3100 truck set at 1/8".
So why does the Book call for toe-in in inches? So a farmer can set the toe-in without expensive alignment equipment.
That's my wild guess on the matter anyway.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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By measuring the distance from the center of the spindle to the tread surface of the tires, and doing a little basic trigonometry, it would be possible to calculate the angle needed to give 1/8" toe in on a 3100, and 1/4" on a big rig. Maybe one of our resident number crunchers would be up to the task!
Jerry


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There is a tool for this. It’s a spring loaded adjustable pole that can be adjusted for length and has two chains that drop down to keep it the correct height off of the ground. You place it, chain hight across the back rims of the front wheels, set the measurements, compress the pole, move it to the front of the rims, compare the measurements, the adjust the tie rod …. Because that’s clear as mud……

Here is a video link to see how it works…..


Mike


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Rabaut #1454391 06/08/2022 1:48 AM
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'Bolter
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Rabaut Just watched that video on toe -in very interesting,looked at my 6400 and I did have the tie-rod ends binding. I see now why it's important for them to bein the same plane,should be able to swivel the tie rod a few degrees easily. Also my yardstick method of measuring is as accurate as his toe-in gauge. My wife held it in there till we found out which way to go. So will give it a test in the morning,just ran it up the road think it's better thankyou to all replies!!

Tiny #1454479 06/08/2022 9:22 PM
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'Bolter
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Tiny I think maybe your right 1/4 inch toe-in is overkill,this mornings drive showed it is a lot better. We moved it about 1/4 inch but probably took-up some toe-out that change also helped wheel position steering wheel is now barely to right. Now on to wheel balance,have a snap on static balancer with bearings and shaft on uprights that Imay have to extend. Think I will soak those bearings in diesel fuel so they are free to turn. Any thoughts on wheel balance for 8.25x20 ??

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Bolter
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Since you are changing subjects I’m moving this over to the Driveline Forum.


Martin
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