Hi All, Truck is about done but needs aligned this week. Its a 1938 1.5 ton, so may require a machine bending the ibeam in the front because its positive camber right now. We're getn the run-around from one shop that said they could do it and now says they cant... Any shops in maryland that are any good?
also - the new rear axle is slightly thinner than the cast brackets that hold around it.. it slipped on the test run arrgggg; need a shop that can help with both ! :/
'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
The only thing a shop needs to correct camber on a straight axle is a piece of heavy I beam, a big chain, and a 20 ton bottle jack. What's lacking is experience and a willingness to do a little manual labor. A little bit of positive camber is a good thing, as long as both sides are equal. Tires roll toward the way the top of the wheel is pointed, so positive camber makes the vehicle roll toward the centerline or the curb, depending on which wheel is involved. Equal positive camber on both sides makes a vehicle on a level road run straight ahead. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks. They said they could do our trucks two weeks ago. Today some other dude picked up the phone and said they dont do “38’s. I dont get it. Bladensburg is too far unfortunately. I need something closer to pa or baltimore (north).
'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
That rear axle is supposed to turn inside the clamps. The torque tube supports it from turning too far. There should be a grease fitting on the clamp to keep it lubricated.
George
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 06/01/20224:04 PM.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Don't rely on clamps to keep the axle housing from turning. Shim the clamps with a piece of steel plate to get the radius right, set the pinion angle where it needs to be, and then drill and tap the top of the bracket and the axle tube for a bolt- - -maybe 3/8" or 7/16" in diameter. The bolt will keep the housing from turning due to torque on the axle tubes. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If one measures the axle shaft OD, measures the housing ID, divides the difference by two, one gets the spacer thickness required. Search for a handy piece of scrap, the OD of which matches the axle, cut the spacer the correct dimensions and center it in the housing, insert the scrap, use the scrap piece to push the spacer into the housing in a press, repeat for other half.
I put a D-80 in GMC 370 that way.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Moxley's can do welding fab. I am going to work with a local mechanic to put a king pin in, he said that is the issue with the camber. I will report back!
'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"