I have been using vinegar on this restoration for all small parts nuts and bolts.
I decided to try it on something bigger. I disassembled the upper and lower A Arms. Put the uppers in a 5 gallon bucket with vinegar and let it go for three days before I removed and it with a pressure washer.
After PW I put them back in last night. I figure a few more days and they will be good to go.
To compare, the first pic is the lower A Arm which I scraped and PW'd.
I so want to figure out a way to do big stuff without a huge cost. Could be a good side business for frames, cabs, fenders, doors, etc.
I use Evaporust on most of my stuff. You could look for agricultural vinegar 20% strength instead of the lesser 10-12% that household vinegar is. I've use plastic bags to hold stuff like rods. You could do the same on the larger things to reduce the volume needed. I also made a vessel out of 1-1/2" pvc pipe with a cap and a drain valve on the end for things like control rods. At some point, for things like frames, cabs, etc. it''s just cheaper to get them blasted. Evaporust does make a gel product, but it's more expensive than their liquid stuff. I tried it without a lot of success. The first tiny jug I got was too thick and they sent me a replacement. It has to stay wet to work.
My son-in-law has a garbage can set up for electrolysis that he dunks stuff in. Works with a battery charger. He uses washing soda and water for the electrolyte and rebar for cathodes (or anodes ). He's done stuff like driveshafts and a bell housing in it.
Last edited by klhansen; 05/18/20228:00 PM. Reason: added a photo
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Just had the '40 Ferd passenger door in the blast cabinet. Normally, it wouldn't fit, but I built a side extension box for the cabinet. The steel looks pretty and, after a final prepaint wipe, ready for epoxy. Took me about an hour to do both sides of the door and the jamb.
You can try citric acid from the bulk food store it looks like sugar might be more convenient as you mix it with water ,hot water in the sun may be better . I think t works a little better than vinegar ,I have seen someone derust by laying paper towel over a rusted dash and keeping it wet and it worked I guess like the gel idea .
You can try citric acid from the bulk food store it looks like sugar might be more convenient as you mix it with water ,hot water in the sun may be better . I think t works a little better than vinegar ,I have seen someone derust by laying paper towel over a rusted dash and keeping it wet and it worked I guess like the gel idea .
I tried the jell on the rear of my frame. It worked but only to a point. This vinegar is o much better. I am sure there are other acids available and if I go bigger I will have to investigate because I looked up 30% vinegar in bulk. $850 for 55 gallons!!!
Keep shopping the vinegar price if you think that's the way you want to go. And there are better prices on citric acid if you hunt a bit. The difference with citric acid is you can create any percentage solution you want. I've seen it sold in 50 pound bags for around $140. 50 pounds will make a LOT of usable citric acid solution. 1 tablespoon in a pint of water will make a 6% solution which is weaker than you might need for faster action but a good starting point and a formula that will let you calculate other percentage levels...ie 2 tbsp in a pint will give you 12%, etc. There isn't really much wisdom in preparing a large dip tank for a citric acid solution, though. You'll waste too much. If you could put the rusty parts into close-fitting plastic bags, that would be ideal. Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
For rust removal, I like "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner. It's available at The Dollar store for cheap.
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck Stovebolt Gallery Forums 1989 Silverado 1996 Mustang GT convertible When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
After you treat parts, do not forget to put a coating on the parts fairly quickly, to prevent rust from coming back. Nothing is more annoying than derusting a part, to find it covered in surface rust a couple of weeks later...
I have used "no-name" (i.e. very cheap) Cola for derusting parts. Parts need to be power washed after, takes a couple of days soaking. Probably not better than vinegar. Next time (if there is a next time!), I would try some sort of acid, citric or phosphoric, they seem to work better/faster.
Molasses and water works well also. You need it warm though for it to be most effective. I built a big tank and filled it and have done most of my body parts and other hardware for my 28 I'm working on.
Manifolds are "porus" so be sure to rub, rub, and rub to be sure to get a good coat. I used it on my manifolds and happy with it. I put a sock on my hand and rubbed and rubbed! Look good for a long time and easy to touch up.
PH values for comparison (the lower the number the stronger the acid):
Water = 7 (very weak, considered neutral) Evapo-Rust = 6.1 Lemon Juice = 3 Pepsi = 2.53 Coca-Cola 2.52 Vinegar (acetic acid) = 2.5 Hydrochloric Acid (gastric acid) = 1.5 to 3.5 Naval Jelly (part phosphoric acid) = 1 to 2.5 Muriatic Acid = 1 to 2 Battery acid = 0.7 Sulfuric Acid = 0.5
I use Evapo-Rust on carburetors. Slow acting which is easier to control. Heavy rust muriatic acid but I put on gloves, long sleeves, respirator and safety glasses or shield (it can damage you lungs).
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
). He's done stuff like driveshafts and a bell housing in it.
