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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
N
Junior Member
Junior Member
N Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
I need some experenced help in finding out how to time this engine and set the valves.
I have not been able to find the specks at this time.
Here is what's going on at this point. The motor idles good, I Have no problem starting up but when engine speed increases the engine is popping through the carb and showing a loss of power.
I notice the Distributer is wabbling when the enging is running what's next? Motor replacement.

I have located a 6 cylinder chevy engine in a 1975 1/2 ton truck will the engine bolt up to the original trany? I'm not sure what size it is but could it be a 250?
Any Idea on what would work for a motor swap?
Thanks for any help keeping the truck out scrap yard!


You thought I drove a Ford! Where is my cresent wrench, I would like to adjust your thought pattern.
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,682
F
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
F Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,682
When you hit the throttle, a vaccume line twists the distributer to advance the timing.

If it idles fine, i'd guess the timing is set fine.. maybe you have a vac leak that keeps it from twisting the distributer enough?

I'd have a buddy give it a little gas till it starts popping, then you twist the distributer counter clockwise, and if the popping stops, then thats whats going on.

Check this out thats a 40's shop manual, but the information on timing and such will be the same for a '50 235.


an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
If the dist. is wabling the shaft is bent. That could cause the popping back trough the carb. Get another dist. & set the points & timing. The timing is set by a timing light shineing on a hole in the bell housing above the starter. Line the shiny ball up with the pointer in the center of the hole. If it still pops you may have a valve adjusted too tight or a worn camshaft.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 40
5
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 40
I agree with Wrenchbender, your distributer is N.F.G.. Start there and it should clear up.

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
N
Junior Member
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
I did not find a ball on the flywheel so I ended up turning the Distributer until the back firing thru the Carb stopped.
I discovered Some local No Dak Farmer put this motor in this truck years ago. I don't think they used the original flywheel. I could not see any marking when I was timing it. Today's temp was 8 degress in the driveway with out the wind chill. I set the valves and adjusted the timing, so far the rattling noise has stopped but it still has that knock in the bottom end. HUM- Will Slick 50 quite down the noise? You cant here the clunk when the motor is reved up! Is it serious???


You thought I drove a Ford! Where is my cresent wrench, I would like to adjust your thought pattern.

Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

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