I had a question regarding my starter. I believe I have a 6V starter (black label) from the original engine from a 1951. The engine I got with the truck is a 235 from a 1956.
The fly wheel has 139 teeth (if I counted right).
I did try and hold up the drive gear to the flywheel and to me it appeared not to mesh/ align with the teeth adjacent to the engaged tooth.
The starter does turn but due to its age I was thinking to have it rebuilt or do it myself if a kit exists and convert it to 12V.
I figured at that point, the drive gear could be changed to mess correctly with the flywheel I have.
I would like to keep the floor switch if possible.
Last question (which may be dumb), if the engine starts with a floor switch, what does the keyed ignition do?
Making some major progress on my project and hoping to have it running this year. Keeping the patina but making the interior and engine bay mint.
Lastly can you recommend a good shop for rebuilding the starter or if they do have kits.
The 6 volt starter and the 139 tooth flywheel is the correct combination. A 168 tooth ring gear is used with the 12 volt (red label) starter. Both starter drives have the same number of teeth, but the angle of the 12V teeth does not match the spacing of the 139 tooth gear. It is impossible to interchange the 6V and 12V drive gears because the shafts are different sizes, and there are other physical differences.
The foot linkage simply engages the starter drive gear mechanically, and then closes a heavy duty switch on top of the starter to spin the motor. The key switch supplies voltage to the ignition system and other accessories and it has nothing to do with making the starting motor run. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If the starter is turning under power, should I rebuild it or are these things pretty bullet proof. If it works is it best to leave it be or can I do a partial rebuild to make it more reliable.
There are three things that a 6 volt starting system MUST have- - - - a fully charged battery, BIG battery cables, and clean, tight connections. There is simply no room for error with only 6 volts to push the current through all those starter windings, particularly when trying to crank a very cold, or very hot engine. Here's a few tests to help you do some diagnosis.
First, test the battery. Your starter is very good testing device. With the ignition switch off, crank the engine for 15 seconds while a helper monitors the battery post voltage with a DC multimeter. After 15 seconds, WITH THE ENGINE STILL TURNING the battery terminal voltage should not drop below 4.5 volts. If the voltage drops below that number or if the cranking speed slows dramatically, recharge or replace the battery. Never, ever lug a starter down to the point it can't turn the engine- - - -as the cranking speed slows, the current draw increases until the internal windings get extremely hot and the starter begins to short itself out. After one 15-20 second episode of continuous cranking, the starter needs at least 20 minutes of cool-down time before another lengthy cranking session.
Battery cables- - - -6V systems need a minimum of a #1 wire gauge conductor on both the hot and ground cables. #0 is better. I build my cables from #1 arc welding cable, with tightly crimped terminal ends. Most welding shops can custom build those cables in any length you want.
ALL connections from the battery to the starter and back need to be scrubbed thoroughly with a wire brush, and tightened firmly. I like to clean and tighten all the connections about once a year- - - -more often if the roads in your area get salted in the winter. I cut my teeth on 6V electrical systems on a 47 Mercury convertible- - - -with an 11:1 compression ratio flathead V8! It was VERY unforgiving of even one loose or dirty connection! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If your intent is to convert the truck to 12 volt, leave the 6 volt starter and flywheel alone and do your 12 volt conversion as outlined in the Stovebolt Tech Tips section in the menu bar at the top of every page.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I didn't see a ground connection, so I assume it grounds by being bolted to the block but I guess I could add an additional ground strap to ensure optimal grounding.
Since I'm basically restoring the truck, I still need to buy a battery.
There probably is a woven, non insulated ground cable somewhere going from frame to engine casting, just looks different.
Ed
Yep. Like this.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Unless that braided ground strap is brand new, it's probably got a severe amount of voltage drop due to internal corrosion at the end terminals. It also adds two extra connection points to corrode. I always use a heavy ground cable directly from the block or bell housing to the battery so all the current that braided cable needs to carry is for lights and other low amperage circuits. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
AS to your original question, any decent starter shop can fix up your starter. There is nothing magical about it, 6 or 12 volt all look the same inside. If you are willing to learn, shop around for brushes, bearings, and Bendix drive and rebuild it your self. The main wear item is the brushes. Don't try to remove the windings, just give them a good cleaning. Take pictures for assembly reference.
Scott 4 Chevy On your starter rebuild,if you can get bushings and brushes and a drive (gear) you can do the rebuild at home. Or If your starter cranks easily and is quiet may be OK as is,if you go to 12 volt it will really whip it over,one I done in 82 worked till just a while back. In my arsenal had one I rebuilt in 2011 put it on was fine. Look at your starter swich contacts,2 screws holding it on top of the starter,if well worn might change it. Also slop in the foot starter linkage may need help.A tin cover around the brush area comes right off to see the commutator and brushes. Just lately starter parts have been harder to get,just stocked-up on bushings ,brushes,switch is now 29$ at local FLAPS...good luck !!
Scott4 Chevy You could take off that metal band on your starter and look at the brushes,the leather washer on that end,and see if both bushing are in good shape
