I have a 51 3600 and i am keeping the original motor and trans. I want to swap out the rear end for 5 or 6 bolt wheels and want to keep the height of the truck as close to stock as possible. Any ideas for the easiest rear end swap? I also want better high speed gear. I might have missed it but been searching the forum for something,
If you're looking at doing a rearend swap and keeping the original drivetrain... One of the simplest options is to go with a six lug rear. The 03-12 Chevy Colorado had a 6 lug rear. You'll want to stick with the 4x4 or Z85 rears, they're slighter wider and fit the AD trucks better. They have gear ratios from 3.08 to 4.11.
Another option is the 95-2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 and Prerunner rearends. They have ratios from 3.15 to 4.56.
If you go the 6 lug route, you'll probably then want to swap out your front axle from a 47-54 3100 truck also.
You could also find an 8 lug Chevy full float 14 bolt rearend. The 63" model is what you want, but is getting pretty rare. They had 3.21 and 3.42 geared models, but more than likely all you're going to find is 4.11, 4.56, and 3,73 rears.
No matter what route you go there's going to be some hacking, fabbing, and welding.
The easy button (for me) to get a decent cruise speed with a stock 85 HP engine (net) is a S10 overdrive transmission. I know your plan is to keep the original transmission. That said, unless you expect to work the truck like a farmer/rancher would have 70 years ago, you give up nothing with the modern S10. Well that is unless a easy shifting, highway happy transmission is a hardship.
Thank you both. RonR i am doing the remode for someone else. He really wants to keep the long floor shifter. Do you know if it can be integrated into the s10 Trans?
Yes, you can cut the T5 shifter near the floor and weld the stock shifter to the stub. That's how I did mine here. At the time we couldn't post photos directly on the 'Bolt so member Lugnutz hosted the ones on the post above for me.
At the time I felt I needed a crossmember under the T5, I've since removed it with no problems cropping up.
I also took a different approach to the input shaft by doing a bit of redneck machine work. If I ever do another conversion, I'll use the Jeep input shaft Lugnuts has on his site, no reason not to and it's a very simple, smart solution to what some see as a complicated challenge.
Strongly suggest clicking on the links at the bottom of Lugnuts post and studying the info he freely shares.
Pastor James, just below this sentence you'll see a copy/paste from the info on the hotlink in my last post above. Also, highly recommend you spend time on Lugnuts site here.
First of all, a huge thanks to lugnutz for his "How To" postings.
My install was pretty much text book easy. I shortened the input shaft on my 1352-146 tranny (from a 1985 S10 with v6) .5 inch. I made the input shaft bearing retainer the same length as the stock one on the SM420 tranny, had to shorten it I believe 1.5 inches (going from memory if wrong I'll let you know).
I used a RockAuto, 11" clutch disk for a 1988 Astro van, (less than $50.) . It was necessary to lengthen the splines on the input shaft (Dewalt angle grinder and cutting wheel) by about .5".
Used original low mileage pressure plate. I cleaned the fly wheel and pressure plate with 80 grit sandpaper.
Drilled out tanny case mounting holes to .5", used stock bolts in top holes and two new bottom bolts 2" long.
Welded a Model T shifter (picked up at the Petit Jean Swap Meet last fall) to the S10 shifter. I didn't want to destroy the original shifter.
Did away with the original two piece driveshaft and had a new 3.5" driveshaft made, 1350 series u-joint on rear, stock S10 3R on front along with the stock S10 front yoke.
Built a transmission crossmember from 2"x.25" flat stock bent at 45's and boxed with 3/16th" X .75" flat stock. Used stock S10 mount. (note the torque multiplication devise that helped drill the mounting bolt holes in the frame).
That's about it,,,no big issues on the install.
The above is from 6 years ago. As mentioned above I'd do things a bit different today; At the time I felt I needed a crossmember under the T5, I've since removed it with no problems cropping up.
I also took a different approach to the input shaft by doing a bit of redneck machine work. If I ever do another conversion, I'll use the Jeep input shaft Lugnuts has on his site, no reason not to and it's a very simple, smart solution to what some see as a complicated challenge.
Thank you guys very much. I have restored several cars but this will be my first restomod and i aint lying to say i am a bit nervous. I am use to putting on a new part like the old one that was there. Thanks so much for the clear and helpful direction.
Pastor James, the forum has a LOT of info it's just a matter of finding it. On the site's front page you can find a tips section here. When you click on the link you're going to find hours of reading about our truck, how to restore and upgrade along with general info. This Link is one of several on the tips page related to T5 transmissions. Each is worth a read and re-read.
Ron, just one minor "point of order" if I may- - - - -there's no such thing as a Model T shifter- - - - -unless you're referring to the three pedals on the floor- - - -none of which are a gas pedal! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
This allows you to keep the axle, no worries about bolt patterns, and will allow the driver to go as fast as they wish.......
It is simple once you find the correct pumpkin. Can do the entire job in 3 beers tops.
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns..... 1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-Ton The GreenMachine In the Stovebolt Gallery
Ron, just one minor "point of order" if I may- - - - -there's no such thing as a Model T shifter- - - - -unless you're referring to the three pedals on the floor- - - -none of which are a gas pedal! Jerry
Jerry, thanks for the correction! Although none were gas pedals, I do believe a couple were shifters! On second thought I'm going with a Model A shifter that I grafted to the T5 shifter stub. I've never driven one but had an uncle that passed in 2019 at 83, he drove his Model A most every week until the very end. It was fully restored and he'd head out on 200 mile drive at the drop of a hat.
SWEET, not a bad suggestion. I did the differential swap as one of the first changes on my truck. Going from the factory 4.57s to 4.10 ring/pinion with the easy differential swap made a noticeable improvement. At 60 mph it rpm dropped from 3,070 to 2,755 per this calculator. However I wanted more, hence the change to a .72 5th gear T5. In hinesight, I wish I'd tried the T5 first. With the 4.57s I think it'd be about the perfect set-up. Unfortunatly the original gears in my truck had pits on the ring gear and howled excessively, another reason I changed differentials. I've been too lazy since to source a better set to check my theory.
Added in edit; On second thought I do have another T5 in the corner with a .83 overdrive, with the 4.10 gears it'd be as good as what I proposed above......Hummmmmm. Another rainy day project I'll likely never get too.
