The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Any "Small Engine" Doctors Out There?

Ok, I have a 60's Cub Cadet, with a 7hp motor. Heres the thing, I have been trying to get this thing to start, and stay running for over 2 weeks now, and to no avail. But, last night I did manage to get it to run for 5 minutes, until it died.

So tonight after school I worked on it some more, only to discover that the "NEW" spark plug wasnt firing. Then I checked the coil, and it had fluid coming out the top, where the spark plug wire connects into, so I figured it was bad. I replaced the coil and tried again, spark plug still wasnt firing, so then I changed plugs and the spark plug fired. After numerous attempts of turning the motor over, it just popped a few times and then nothing more. I pulled the spark plug and now it was dead too.

Now, my question is what the heck could be causing this? I did notice a new smell, like burning rubber/frying wiring, but nothing is burning. Maybe there is something inside the engine that is be burning? I havent a clue.

Other things to know about this rig is that it has a fullsize 12v battery, a regular car/truck coil (older style, long black cylinder), and generator/starter combo electric motor, and an 18mm spark plug (i think). And yes its a Gas motor.

Also, isnt there suppossed to be a ballast resistor with this type of ignition system? Especially on a little 7hp motor? And is there suppossed to be a different type of coil?

I have posted links to pictures of this rig, please help me if you can, I would appreciate it very much! Im trying to get this thing up and runing ASAP. Thanks -

Picture 1
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Picture 3

- Shane
[email protected]

Step #1: Clean the points

Step #2: Set point gap

Step #3: Clean the points again!

These engines are extremely critical about primary ignition current, so make absolutely sure the points don't have oil on them. I like to clean them with alcohol, and a pencil eraser. The rubber eraser has just enough abrasive to polish away any surface oxidation, and the alcohol takes care of any rubber residue. Buff the points thoroughly with a CLEAN pencil eraser, then use a lint-free rag and alcohol to clean up the residue. Set the point gap, and fire it up! Be sure the coil you're using is right for the application. You won't need a ballasdt resistor unless somebody has put a GM-type coil on it in place of the original one. A coil for a mid-60's Ford doesn't need a resistor.
Jerry

Shane: being a Cub Cadet man for 30 yrs. you have a very old tractor. Pre 70 most likely. Your coil is breaking down. Now what I would do is replace again with a new coil. Get a heavy duty and If I remember right GM will work on that thing. Is there any wire from the switch that is grounding the coil out. Also make sure both sides are hooked up correctly and no bare wire is touching what it is not suppose to.

Is the battery staying charged up? Also make sure your PTO for deck is not engaged, this cuts power to spark plug also. Ben

popcorn The Truth is Out There (E-mail me if this doesn't work we'll get it figured out)

Buy one of those "chips" that replace points on a small engine, they work well. I have put them on a bunch,'cause its easier to install than pulling the flywheel on a Briggs. One wire hooks to points lead, other is grounded, bam it starts. Brian

Well, I will try to check all these things when I get home, and I will see if I can find another coil. The battery stays charged, and when I am constantly turning the motor over the coil does get pretty warm. I will also clean the points, but im not sure what the gap should be set too either, anyone know? I will also replace any bad wires, there is one that has the insulation broke an many places. Thanks, for the help so far, I look forward to getting this thing runnin!

- Shane
[email protected]

Shane I am not sure (Old Age) for some reason 16 but Hot Rod will know for sure. My 1863 Cub (18 hp 3pt hitch) has electric ing. popcorn The Truth is Out There (Owned a 70, 106, 1450, 782, now 1863) More work bigger tractors.

the points can look good and still not work realy cheack them over also replace the condencer

If it's a Briggs & Stratton engine, the point gap is probably .020". Ditto on changing the condenser! Some of those engines have the insulated point made onto the end of the condenser, if I'm remembering things right.
Jerry

The engine is a Kohler K161S 7HP. And I was also told to replace the condesor, because I should not be able to see a lot of spark/arching like I have been able to. Anyone agree with this?

- Shane

Get a genuine Kohler coil they have a built in resistor and won't get hot like a coil off an old chevy will....I found this out a few years ago with my JD 140