So I am trying to replace the drag link and the tie rods on my 1957 AD truck. They are original, bent and rusted. I cannot get the drag link off of the pitman arm. Of course I removed the castle nut and cotter pin. But all the heat and banging will not loosen the little bugger. Any recommendations or special tool needed?
Point of order.... if you have a 1957 you do not have a Advance Design Truck. You have a Taskforce truck. Now that we have that cleared up someone will be along shortly with the answer to your questions.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Special tool called a Pickle Fork, available anywhere tools are sold. You can get the manual version or one that fits your air hammer tool. Also there is a special puller for the pitman arm you might find useful.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Most chain auto parts stores (O'Reilly's, AutoZone, etc) have rental tools including a pitman arm removal tool. I used on from O'Reilly's last year to pull the Pitman arm on my '52 GMC and replace the leaking seal.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Use the tool to put some pressure on the stud, then hold a BFH on one side of the eye, and smack the other side with another hammer. Should pop right loose. The noise makes the rust molecules that were holding hands let go and cover their ears.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
